Article: Marsannay
Marsannay
If there is one appellation I feel is consistently passed over by collectors, it's Marsannay. It just doesn't get the love it deserves. Tucked at the top of the Côte de Nuits, next stop Dijon, it sits in the shadow of its more celebrated neighbors to the south.
I first visited Sylvain Pataille there in 2008. At the time, there were some rumblings about elevating several of the vineyards to premier cru. If you have tasted any of the Pataille wines, you can surely see the argument. Fast forward eighteen years and still nothing has changed on that front. What has changed, however, is the number of producers crafting genuinely compelling wines — and I'd like to share a few of them with you today.
When I look to Marsannay, there's a handful of names I tend to gravitate toward. These producers have long championed the notion that great terroir does not always come with a prestigious designation. While each approaches Marsannay from a slightly different perspective, they share a common commitment to expressing the individuality of their vineyard sites.
I already mentioned Sylvain Pataille, who has received the most attention from wine writers and collectors alike. He is pushing the limits of what is possible with organic and biodynamic farming, and truly crafting special wines. Laurent Fournier is a name I'm sure most of you are not familiar with. He has been meticulously farming his family's vineyards for years, and on a visit in 2012 I learned that his good friend Olivier Lamy had been helping him adopt a biodynamic approach. I've been buying the wines ever since. Tasting both his Les Longeroies and Clos du Roy, it would be easy to make the argument for premier cru.
The wines from Vieux Collège, when I'm able to get my hands on them, have been a huge success. The Bourgogne Rouge has become one of our most requested — I just wish could keep it in stock more than a couple of days. I haven't made a formal offering of his Marsannay lieu-dits before, as it's difficult to send an email when you only have a handful of cases to sell. I thought I'd include them in today's offer for those of you looking for an elevated experience without spending a lot of money. These are first-rate in every way.
Whether or not we ever see the Marsannay vineyards elevated to premier cru is anyone's guess. At this point, I'm almost glad they haven't been — it has certainly helped keep the prices reasonable, especially given the quality. If you haven't yet discovered Marsannay, I highly suggest trying a few of these. You will be glad you did.
Domaine du Vieux Collège is a seven-generation family estate located in Marsannay-la-Côte. Since 2006, the domaine has been run by Éric Guyard, who expanded the estate from 13 to approximately 25 hectares across Marsannay, Fixin, and Gevrey-Chambertin. The estate has been certified organic since the 2014 vintage.
Domaine Charlopin-Tissier was established in 2013 by Yann Charlopin and Justine Tissier. The estate farms approximately 7 hectares across the Côte de Nuits and follows sustainable farming practices with hand harvesting, native yeast fermentations, and aging in French oak barrels.
Les Longeroies is one of the most highly regarded vineyard sites in Marsannay. Located on limestone-rich soils with favorable southeast exposure, it is known for producing wines with concentration, structure, and mineral character. The vineyard is frequently cited among the top climats of the appellation.
First Rate!
Reduction blocks all but subtle floral nuances from piercing the funk. By contrast, there is a lovely underlying tension to the well-detailed and stony flavors that possess slightly better volume on the firm, dusty and bitter pit fruit-inflected finish that offers just a bit more depth and persistence. Note that at least some patience will be necessary.
- Burghound, 90-92 Outstanding!
The 2022 Marsannay Clos du Roy has a classy bouquet with beautifully defined black cherry and bilberry fruit... fresh with finely chiseled tannins and impressive structure, yet finishes harmonious and pure.
- Vinous Media, 91-93
Once again the expressive nose is super-fresh and appealing with its overtly floral-suffused nose of red pinot fruit, wet stone and rose petal. The medium weight flavors aren't quite as concentrated, but they are notably finer on the youthfully austere finale that could use better depth.
- Burghound, 88-90
