Article: Louis Michel - Butteaux Vieilles Vignes
Louis Michel - Butteaux Vieilles Vignes
I've written countless times over the years about Domaine Louis Michel, an address I have consistently relied upon for classically styled wines that are among the best values Chablis has to offer. With all of the wines raised in stainless steel, freshness and energy are front and center, allowing everything we love about Chablis to be on full display.
No more so than the bottle of Butteaux Vieilles Vignes 2023 I enjoyed this past weekend. Scents of citrus and white flower greet you on the nose, but the real fireworks start as soon as you put the wine in your mouth. You immediately feel the density of the old vine fruit on your palate as it expands into your jaw and coats your entire mouth. This wine has really fleshed out nicely, and the volume here is quite impressive. What I like so much about this wine is the finish: the density of the fruit is balanced so nicely by the acidity that the flavors reverberate in waves for close to a minute after you swallow.
This is a stunning, stunning wine! One of the best Chablis I've had in recent memory. I know most people gravitate toward the Montée de Tonnerre, but those who understand this estate know that the Butteaux is arguably the top cuvée. I've got a few cases of this in stock, with another 60 bottles on the water due end of July. I can't recommend this wine more highly. Absolutely fantastic!
Smoky reduction currently dominates the nose so be sure to give this some air first. Otherwise, the delicious middle weight plus flavors possess better volume and more evident power on the sappy, lingering and well-balanced finale that is borderline tannic. I wouldn't describe this as racy but I really like the mouthfeel thanks to the sappy dry extract provided by the old vines.
- Burghound, 91 Outstanding!
If anything, the Vieilles Vignes is paler in colour than the straight Butteaux, with a very slightly more exotic nose, but still a delight. Good tension at the back, tightly wound, more marine, just a little plus in all directions over the regular. Salivating finish. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Jun 2025.
- Jasper Morris, 93
