Champagne Clandestin Les Semblables Boreal - R21

93 VM

Reviews:

The NV (2021) Brut Nature Blanc de Noir Boreal, 100% Pinot Noir, is a wine of notable tension and energy. Chalk, mint, white pepper, dried herbs and kirsch all race across the palate. This is an especially racy style for the Aube. Impressive. No dosage. Disgorged: November 2023. Galloni / Vinous Media 93

As Benoît Doussot has slowly increased his production, he has begun to separate the Pinot he farms into parcels with a southern exposition from those with a more northerly exposure. Boréal comes from his north-facing vineyards of Pinot Noir in the commune of Buxières-sur-Acre. These sites are far cooler than most vineyards farmed in the village, making precise and intensely mineral wines lashed with bright, crunchy berry flavors. Fermented and aged in French oak barrels before aging sur latte for 15 months, Les Semblables Boreal is disgorged and finished without any dosage.

Originally from Beaune, Benoît Doussot arrived in Champagne in 2015 after a stint at Domaine Fichet in Meursault. Working at Vouette & Sorbée, he perceived that organic growers were selling their fruit to big houses and the local cooperatives for no premium, and he set out to change that. Today, Doussot works with some 12 hectares of vines, farmed by nine different vignerons, divided among 18 parcels. In sourcing, he's looking for the second terrace of Kimmeridgian limestone; and all his cuvées are derived from a single vintage, a single grape variety and this same terrace, differentiated by their different expositions. Vinification is in large 500- and 600-liter oak barrels, with comparatively long élevage of vins clairs on the lees; and tirage is with relatively low pressure, favoring a more vinous profile. These are high quality, elegant Champagnes with a Burgundian accent, with the more northerly facing sites delivering more chiseled wines and their southerly facing sites more plenitude

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