Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuisse "Clos des Prouges" 2020

2020 Ferret, J.A. Pouilly Fuisse Clos des Prouges

89 BH

Notes:

Once again moderate wood is present on the nose of ripe and vaguely exotic white orchard fruit aromas that exhibit background spice and quinine nuances. The rich and relatively full-bodied are quite generous yet not so such as to be blurry or lacking focus on the delineated, energetic, moderately dry and balanced finale that offers good if not special depth along with sneaky good length. Burghound 91 Outstanding!

Producer: Domaine J.A. Ferret is one of the historic estates of Fuissé, with roots dating to 1840. The domaine became particularly important under Jeanne Ferret, followed by her daughter Colette, who helped establish the practice of bottling individual vineyard sites separately at a time when much of Pouilly-Fuissé was still sold simply under the appellation name. The property was acquired by Maison Louis Jadot in 2008, but continues to operate as a distinct domaine. Winemaker Audrey Braccini subsequently directed the estate and continued its parcel-focused approach, working with a collection of predominantly old-vine Chardonnay vineyards around Fuissé and Vergisson. The estate began its conversion toward organic viticulture with the 2020 growing season, alongside continued soil cultivation and detailed management of its individual parcels.
Vineyard: Clos des Prouges is a genuine enclosed vineyard situated directly in the center of the village of Fuissé. The domaine controls a little over 2 hectares, making this the largest-production wine among Ferret's individual single-vineyard bottlings. The clos occupies a gentle east-facing slope on soils derived from limestone-rich marl of the Upper Bathonian geological period. Most of the vineyard was planted in 1956, meaning the principal vines were already more than 60 years old when the 2020 was harvested; a small section was replanted in 2003. The combination gives Ferret both mature old-vine material and a smaller component from younger vines within the same enclosed site. Importantly, Clos des Prouges was not included among the vineyards elevated to Premier Cru when Pouilly-Fuissé introduced its Premier Cru classification beginning with the 2020 vintage. Ferret therefore retains its traditional “Tête de Cru” designation for the bottling rather than labeling it Premier Cru.
Winemaking: The 2020 is 100% Chardonnay. Fermentation and the first stage of maturation took place in French oak barrels, with 20% new oak and the remaining 80% composed of second-, third-, and fourth-use barrels. The wine remained in barrel for 10 months, after which it was transferred to stainless steel for a further nine months on its fine lees. That second, oak-free stage is an important part of the élevage, extending maturation considerably while allowing the wine to settle and develop without additional wood influence. Malolactic fermentation was only partial, preserving a portion of the Chardonnay's natural acidity. The wine was ultimately bottled at the end of March 2022, roughly a year and a half after harvest. The 2020 growing season began early following a warm late winter and continued through a hot, dry summer, although timely rainfall helped relieve drought pressure. The domaine reported healthy fruit at harvest with moderate alcohol and retained acidity despite the warm conditions.
Technical Details: Pouilly-Fuissé AOC; Tête de Cru “Clos des Prouges”; 2020 vintage; 100% Chardonnay; enclosed vineyard of slightly more than 2 hectares; located in the center of Fuissé; gentle east-facing slope; limestone-rich marl derived from the Upper Bathonian; majority of vines planted 1956, with a smaller parcel planted 2003; fermentation and initial maturation in French oak; 20% new oak, remainder second- through fourth-use barrels; 10 months in barrel followed by 9 months in stainless steel on fine lees; partial malolactic fermentation; bottled end of March 2022; 13.37% ABV; pH 3.25; acidity 3.95 g/L; 750ml.
Food Pairing: Butter-poached lobster, seared scallops, roasted turbot, Dover sole, halibut, monkfish, crab cakes, roast chicken, chicken with morels, veal chops, pork loin, mushroom risotto, gougères, Comté, Beaufort, and aged Gruyère. The combination of old-vine Chardonnay, extended lees maturation and partial malolactic fermentation gives the wine enough substance for richer seafood and poultry while maintaining the acidity needed for butter- and cream-based preparations.

Vins Rare

Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuisse "Clos des Prouges" 2020

Name: Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuisse "Clos des Prouges" 2020
Brand: Vins Rare
SKU: 7531
Price: 85.00 USD
Availability: InStock