Samuel Billaud Chablis "Les Grands Terroirs" 2024

90-92 JM

Notes:

Made from the usual three locations. 25 hl/ha on average. A little bready yeast note on the nose along with its more classical components. Wonderful tension behind. The “they don’t make Chablis like they used to” grumblers should be satisfied. Crisp citrus notes infuse the finish. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Jun 2025. Jasper Morris 90-92 | 5 Stars

Always One of the Top Chablis Village!

Producer: Samuel Billaud comes from one of Chablis’ established winegrowing families and spent nearly two decades making wine at the family domaine, Billaud-Simon, where he developed a reputation as a particularly precise interpreter of Chablis. After setting out independently, he established his own operation and, following the sale of Billaud-Simon in 2014, was able to acquire approximately four hectares from the family holdings. His domaine now works across the hierarchy of Chablis, including important Premier Cru and Grand Cru sites. Billaud’s wines are built around precision, freshness and a clear expression of individual terroirs, and “Les Grands Terroirs” is one of the strongest introductions to that approach.
Vineyard: “Les Grands Terroirs” is not a single-vineyard Chablis but a carefully assembled blend of several village-level parcels. For 2024, the principal sites are Les Pargues, Bas de Chapelot and Fontenottes/Les Cartes, bringing together fruit from both sides of the Serein. Les Pargues lies near Préhy on the left bank; Fontenottes and Les Cartes occupy cooler ground behind the Montmain slope; and Chapelot is situated on the right bank. This gives Billaud several different exposures and terroirs to work with rather than relying on a single expression of village Chablis. Yields were particularly low in 2024—around 20–25 hl/ha according to contemporary reports—adding concentration in a vintage where quantity was severely limited.
Winemaking: The 2024 “Les Grands Terroirs” was raised with an emphasis on preserving the clarity and energy of the Chardonnay. The wine spent approximately 15 months in stainless-steel tanks on its fine lees, keeping the élevage neutral while allowing the lees to contribute texture and complexity. That approach is particularly well suited to this cuvée: rather than adding an obvious layer of oak, Billaud allows the different village parcels to provide the substance and complexity. The resulting style combines the cut expected from Chablis with enough concentration to give the wine considerably more presence than a simple introductory bottling.
Technical Details: 100% Chardonnay from the Chablis AOC, vintage 2024. The wine is 12.5% alcohol, bottled in 750ml format, and SAQ reports less than 1.2 g/L residual sugar, firmly placing it in the dry style. The 2024 growing season produced exceptionally small yields at the domaine, but the resulting fruit retained the acidity and concentration that define this bottling. The combination of multiple well-positioned village parcels, low yields and extended lees aging gives “Les Grands Terroirs” a level of ambition that makes it particularly interesting within the village Chablis category.
Food Pairing: The freshness, mineral character and underlying concentration of this Chablis make it particularly versatile at the table. Oysters, clams, scallops, grilled white fish, sole meunière and simply prepared lobster are natural matches. It also has enough texture for roast chicken, jambon persillé or escargots, while fresh goat cheese works particularly well with the wine’s acidity. Serve around 10–12°C, allowing it to warm slightly in the glass as it opens.