Samuel Billaud Chablis 1er Cru "Mont de Milieu" 2024

91-94 BH

Notes:

As is often the case, there is a vague suggestion of the exotic on the super-fresh and bright nose of citrus confit, quinine, petrol and shellfish. Much like the Fourneaux, the medium-bodied flavors are dense, powerful and serious with superb length on the balanced finish that is borderline tannic. This too could use more depth, but it is undeniably promising and should age accordingly. Burghound 91-94 Sweet Spot Outstanding!

Producer: Samuel Billaud established his own domaine after nearly two decades working at his family’s Domaine Billaud-Simon. Since setting out independently, he has built a focused range spanning village Chablis through an impressive collection of Premier and Grand Crus. His approach is particularly attentive to the differences between individual sites, adjusting élevage according to the character of each vineyard rather than applying one cellar recipe across the range. Mont de Milieu is one of the more substantial Premier Crus in his portfolio, and the 2024 shows the combination of concentration, freshness and precision that has made Billaud one of the most closely followed producers in contemporary Chablis.
Vineyard: Billaud works three parcels within Mont de Milieu, with vines approximately 35, 70 and 85 years old. The oldest parcel was planted by his grandfather. Mont de Milieu sits on the right bank of the Serein, where its favorable exposure and Kimmeridgian limestone-based soils can produce Chardonnay with both ripeness and a strong mineral backbone. The three parcels occupy different positions on the slope—lower, middle and upper—giving Billaud a range of vine ages and exposures to work with in the final cuvée. The vineyard escaped much of the damage that reduced production elsewhere in Chablis in 2024, and yields here reached approximately 30 hl/ha.
Winemaking: The 2024 Mont de Milieu was raised 80% in stainless steel and 20% in 500-liter barrels, with the barrels between approximately three and five years old. The restrained use of mature oak adds texture without making wood a defining feature of the wine. That balance is particularly well suited to Mont de Milieu, preserving the vineyard’s freshness and limestone-driven character while allowing the naturally concentrated fruit to develop additional breadth. The 2024 has been consistently described as one of the more linear and classically styled wines in the range, combining substantial fruit with firm acidity and a distinctly stony, saline profile.
Technical Details: 100% Chardonnay from the 2024 vintage, classified Chablis Premier Cru AOC. The wine comes from three parcels of Mont de Milieu with vines ranging from approximately 35 to 85 years old. Yield was around 30 hl/ha in 2024. Élevage is 80% stainless steel and 20% seasoned 500-liter barrels. Alcohol is 13%, and the wine is bottled in 750ml format. The combination of multiple parcels, significant vine age and limited use of oak gives this cuvée both the concentration expected from Mont de Milieu and the freshness that defines Billaud’s style.
Food Pairing: Mont de Milieu’s combination of concentration, acidity and mineral character makes it particularly well suited to seafood. Oysters, scallops, lobster, crab, grilled turbot and sole meunière are excellent matches. Its additional body also gives it enough presence for roast chicken, richer white-fish preparations or shellfish with beurre blanc. Serve around 10–12°C, allowing it to open gradually in the glass.