White Burgundy 2023
Early November 2024, as I was starting to receive my allocations for 2023 white burgundy, I cherry picked a number of my favorites from two domaines; Latour Giruad and Michel Niellon. Then, Jasper Morris released his first remarks about the vintage. Lo and behold, the wines I selected were not only the highest scoring wines from the producer, but some of the highest scoring wines from the entire report. Those who have access to his paid content, will now understand, those who do not, just keep reading here!
The volume produced in 2023 might be remembered as one of the largest on record. Every vigneron with whom I spoke was delighted with the amount of wine in the cellar; barrels were stacked 3-high, in some cases! It had been a long time since anyone had seen it this abundant, something rare and involving an ideal set of circumstances.
The circumstances were such that the preceding winter was on the warm side and then April came and went without a hint of frost. May sauntered on stage, unfolding a flowering of utter perfection and anyone with eyeballs could see this was going to be a very large harvest! The conscientious producers either began de-budding and or green harvesting to somewhat reduce the fruit set on the vine. While chardonnay can perform well with large yields, as the warm dry conditions persisted, picking precise dates gained importance. As the sugars spike, the acidity drops so it was imperative to be tasting your grapes as the harvest approached. Some growers started in August, others waited until mid September, although conditions became extremely warm in September and those with the ability to cool the fruit benefitted.
For five years now, both Latour Giraud and Domaine Michel Niellon are two producers at the top of their game and these early comments from Jasper Morris confirm that they have again surmounted challenges and turned out a bevy of exceptional wines.
Today’s offer includes some of my favorites, which happen to be the highest rated wines of the entire report. I’m already seeing pressure on the pricing as the world wakes up and realizes this is going to be another solid vintage for White Burgundy. For all of you that are White Burgundy buyers, this is a vintage that is going to offer some wines that can be enjoyed on the younger side, but don’t be surprised by the freshness and acidity they display.
I did manage to snag a few more cases of the Latour Giraud Perrieres as well as their outstanding Genvrieres Cuvee Pierre, both not to be missed!
Very pale colour. A fresh chiselled stony white fruit on the nose. Pure fresh apple and pear, quite concentrated, a little bit of citrus, middleweight with good persistence. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 89
Mid lemon yellow, a discreet bouquet with a little white fruit and perhaps less gunflint than Maltroie. More apple coming out. This is lovely on the palate, some riper flavours coming out behind, with a little fresh apricot, softer and easy going as the clay kicks in. Lovely early. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 92
A clear pale colour and the least showing on the nose of the 1ers crus. Leaner on the palate, then a little waft of oak at the back which integrates well with the fruit even so. Precision at the back, just less easily definable character than most of the other wines. Drink from 2027-2031. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 91
2023 Niellon Chassagne Montrachet 1er Chaumees “Clos des la Truffiere”
Planted just after the First World War. Still in good form without offering high degrees. 12.8% in 2023. A very pale lemon colour. The nose is extremely discreet, but with a sense that there is plenty behind. On the palate this has such a fine backbone, and the fruit extends magically through to a long fine finish, perfect poise and balance. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 94
A paler lemon colour. More chiselled on the nose than the village blend. A little whiff of coconut from the oak. A more cerebral wine. Every bit as much intensity, arguably more, in a linear style with the energy growing steadily to the back of the palate. A fine long white fruit finish, the oak entirely integrated. Persistent. The vines are in Les Gorges de Narvaux Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 90-92
Half and half between upper and lower Charmes. A bright rich lemon colour. Attractive but not especially demonstrative. Offering breadth and depth, there is no edge to the fruit, a significant mouthful of white orchard fruit, mostly at the back of the palate, intelligent oaking, correct acidity, and very persistent. I find more character in one or two of Jean-Pierre Latour’s wines but this is properly Charmes. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 91-94
Mid yellow, with a really beautiful succulent nose, picked at perfect ripeness, and not hiding the delicacy and detail of fine Genevrières. Some lime, some verbena, delicate fresh apples, back to the lime blossom, then a really fine boned framework on the palate. Tingles the tastebuds in the most delicious way. A beautifully crafted 2023 Genevrières. Drink from 2029-2037. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 93-96
2023 Latour Giraud Meursault 1er Genevrieres “Cuvee des Pierres”
This special bottling comes from the top left corner of their holding. Mid lemon yellow. A sense of intensity rather than the detail up front. The wood is entirely integrated. Four barrels, out of 40 overall in Genevrières. (2 out of 13 in 2024). Two minutes in the glass and the highest class of very pure white fruit emerges. A stunning purity and subtlety before a raft of power., assisted by the age of the vines (50+) as well as the terroir. Will still be tasting this when I reach Beaune! Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 5 Star | 94-97 Points
2023 Latour Giraud Meursault 1er Perrieres
Mid lemon yellow, the weight and the sumptuous feel are certainly present. this is plump but within its corsets, ripe pears, a little citrus wash, plenty of weight. Good acidity, a certain crunchiness. Not quite so in place today as the Genevrières and with a little more warmth at the back, but Perrières majesty is certainly present. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 92-94
