Latour-Giraud Meursault 1er Cru "Perrieres" 2023

92-95 BH

92-94 JM

Notes:

Cooler aromas include those of Granny Smith apple, plenty of mineral reduction, citrus confit and a plethora of floral nuances. There is again excellent volume to the equally sleek and beautifully delineated middle weight flavors where the stoniness is borderline aggressive on the equally bone-dry, youthfully austere and strikingly persistent finale. This is also first-rate with the development potential to match. Burghound 92-95

Mid lemon yellow, the weight and the sumptuous feel are certainly present. this is plump but within its corsets, ripe pears, a little citrus wash, plenty of weight. Good acidity, a certain crunchiness. Not quite so in place today as the Genevrières and with a little more warmth at the back, but Perrières majesty is certainly present. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024. Jasper Morris 92-94

Producer: Domaine Latour-Giraud is a family estate based in Meursault with roots in viticulture extending back to the late 17th century. The modern domaine was created in 1958 through the marriage of members of the Latour and Giraud families. Today, Jean-Pierre Latour manages the roughly 10-hectare property, overseeing the vineyards, winemaking, élevage and commercial side of the estate, with his wife Christine handling administration. White wine accounts for approximately 80% of production, and the domaine’s holdings are particularly strong in Meursault. Its Premier Cru vineyards include Genevrières, Charmes, Perrières, Bouchères and Poruzot, complemented by holdings in Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canet and several important village-level Meursault lieux-dits. Latour-Giraud is particularly notable for owning 2.5 hectares of Genevrières, making it the largest proprietor in that Premier Cru. Perrières, however, is a completely different proposition: the domaine owns only a tiny parcel, making it one of the smallest-production wines in the cellar.
Vineyard: Perrières is one of the most celebrated Premier Crus of Meursault, occupying roughly 13 hectares between Blagny and Charmes. The domaine itself places Perrières alongside Genevrières among the finest Premier Cru sites in the village. Its name derives from an old underground quarry that supplied stone for construction in Meursault, an appropriate connection for a vineyard renowned for its rocky, mineral expression. Latour-Giraud owns just 0.14 hectare (14 ares) of Perrières, a remarkably small holding compared with its extensive Genevrières parcels. The vineyard’s thin, limestone-rich and notably stony soils provide an important counterpoint to Meursault’s natural breadth. Perrières is prized for combining concentration with definition, producing Chardonnay that can have considerable volume while retaining a strong mineral backbone and precision. This balance is central to the reputation of the site and is one reason Perrières has long occupied a particularly high place within the hierarchy of Meursault Premier Crus.
Winemaking: Jean-Pierre Latour handles the domaine’s winemaking and élevage himself, with each of the estate’s important Meursault terroirs bottled separately. With only 14 ares of Perrières, this is necessarily a very small-production cuvée. The domaine’s approach allows the natural power of Meursault to develop without losing the definition that distinguishes Perrières from the surrounding vineyards. The 2023 is a particularly complete expression of that balance: there is ample weight and concentration, but also freshness, tension and the pronounced mineral quality associated with the site. Pear and citrus sit alongside a distinctly stony character, while the palate combines breadth with enough acidity and structure to give the wine considerable potential in the cellar. This is not simply a richer expression of Meursault; Perrières is prized because it brings together the village’s natural generosity with a much more tightly drawn mineral framework.
Technical Details: 100% Chardonnay from Meursault Premier Cru Perrières in the Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France. Latour-Giraud owns approximately 0.14 hectare within the roughly 13-hectare climat. The domaine’s technical sheet lists the wine at 13.5% alcohol and recommends serving it at approximately 13–14°C (55–57°F). The estate also indicates that Perrières can comfortably develop for up to a decade, while the structure of the 2023 suggests that patient cellaring should be particularly rewarding. With such a small vineyard holding, Perrières represents one of the rarest wines produced by Latour-Giraud.
Food Pairing: Perrières has enough freshness and mineral definition for simply prepared seafood, but its concentration allows it to handle richer dishes as well. Dover sole, turbot, scallops, lobster and roasted sea bass are particularly strong matches, especially with beurre blanc or a light cream sauce. Roast chicken, veal with mushrooms, or poultry with morels would work well as the wine gains additional complexity with age. The domaine itself specifically recommends sea fish and seafood.