Article: Pegau 2023

Pegau 2023
That bottle is probably still the best mature wine I've ever had. It's also one of the reasons I've always had a soft spot for Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The 2023 Domaine du Pégau Cuvée Réservée reminded me why.
The Féraud family has remained one of the great traditionalists of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. While others embraced modern cellar techniques, Pégau has always trusted tradition over trends. Whole clusters, native yeast fermentations, long aging in old oak foudres, and an unwavering belief that the vineyard should shape the wine more than the cellar ever could. It's an approach that has made Pégau one of the benchmark estates of the appellation, producing wines that have earned as much respect for their longevity as they have for their unmistakable sense of place.
The 2023 captures everything I enjoy about young Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Fresh rose petals lift from the glass alongside warm spice and an inviting savory note that gives the wine immediate character. The palate is generous with luscious Grenache fruit, yet there's a refinement that keeps it remarkably poised. It's full-bodied without ever feeling cumbersome, carrying its structure with ease before giving way to a velvety, lingering finish. Every component feels exactly where it should.
I still think about that bottle from time to time, reminding me what grenache can become. Looking at this young Pégau, it's hard not to wonder if someone will be saying the same thing about this bottle twenty years from now. Some bottles stay with you long after you’ve pulled the cork and if history is any indication, this Pegau has every chance to become exactly that. Do yourself a favor and grab a few bottles while they’re still available, if it has even a fraction of the future I imagine it does, it's one I'll be glad to have tucked away. I hope you feel the same.
The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée launches with vivid violet, rosewater and ripe red fruits, with a sprinkle of white pepper and leafy gradations. Less structured and concentrated than the more serious 2022, the 2023 is full-bodied, no doubt, but also outstandingly light on its feet. A long and refined finish confirms its potential.
- Vinous Media, 92-94
The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée has turned out beautifully, opening with aromas of dark berries, rose petals, mulberries and spices. Medium- to full-bodied, round and sappy, it is deep and muscular, framed by velvety tannins and concluding with a long, spicy finish. Less dense and robust than in previous years, this blend of 80% Grenache Noir, 6% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre and 10% permitted varieties should gain further depth and harmony with time in the cellar.
- Wine Advocate, 93
