Droin Chablis 2024
Benoît Droin is probably one of the best Chablis producers nobody ever seems to talk about. It’s an estate I’ve been visiting for years and a consistent source of precision-driven, classically styled Chablis. The family’s lineage in the region can be traced back to 1620, and Benoît represents the 14th generation to helm this important Chablis estate.
Benoît joined the domaine in 1999 after training in Beaune and spending time at Domaine Laroche. Over the following years, he gradually took on more responsibility and formally took the reins from his father around 2014. Since then, he has refined the approach in both the vineyard and the cellar, with a clear focus on expressing terroir with precision, using oak judiciously, and reducing yields to improve concentration.
The estate spans just over 25 hectares and is one of my favorite places to taste in Chablis. In a single visit, you get a broad snapshot of the entire region: nine Premier Crus, five Grand Crus, and countless parcels of village Chablis and Petit Chablis. And when Benoît starts talking about the vineyards, you almost feel like you’re hearing the story of every stone in the soil.
I’ve written several times about the 2024 vintage. It was one of the wettest growing season on record, and just about everything that could go wrong did. Frost, rain, mildew, then more rain was the pattern growers faced throughout the year. Disease pressure was relentless, and it took real resolve not to give up.
Those who were able to persevere were rewarded with some truly compelling wines, marked by striking freshness and minerality. The challenge, however, is that most producers made only about a third of their normal volumes.
Needless to say, allocations are minuscule. I’ve had producers I’ve worked with for nearly 20 years tell me they simply have nothing to sell. I moved quickly on some of my favorite wines that I buy every year, and I don’t expect there will be any opportunity to go back for more. Many of the best wines will be sold out long before they even arrive.
If you love Chablis the way I do, this is a year to act quickly. With your favorite producers, it will only take a moment of hesitation to look up and realize the wines are already gone.
A slightly riper nose includes notes of pear, apple, citrus and an equally broad range of classic Chablis elements. There is more volume and a more refined texture to the medium weight flavors that also exude a subtle minerality to the clean, dry and refreshing finish where a hint of youthful austere slowly emerges.
- Burghound, 88-91
Prominent petrol nuances are present on the ripe and smoky mix of mineral reduction, acacia blossom, lemon-lime and ocean breeze are trimmed in subtle but not invisible wood. There is both better volume and a bit more punch as well to the utterly delicious flavors that deliver fine length on the balanced, dry and sleek finale. While this could use better depth, it's very stylish, indeed the word classy comes to mind.
- Burghound, 90-93
30% oak component. A lively fresh lemon. Immediate personality without the super-succulence of the hotter years. A little smoky reduction. White orchard fruit with good energy behind, attractive kimmeridgian texture behind. Fine persistence. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Jun 2025.
- Jasper Morris, 90-93
As is often the case with the Droin Valmur, the nose instantly makes clear that this could be from nowhere else but Chablis. On the palate there is more volume, power and weight, if not nearly the same refinement, to the rich and caressing bigger-bodied flavors, all wrapped in an impressively persistent and balanced finale. Like several wines in the range, this too would benefit from having more depth so I would advise allowing it at least mid-term cellaring.
- Burghound 91-94
A citrus and mineral reduction-tinged nose is comprised mostly of green fruit, iodine and oyster shell nuances. The palate impression is much like that of the Valmur as the big-bodied flavors are dense and muscular while exhibiting excellent power on the borderline aggressively stony, sappy, very dry and youthfully austere finale. As is virtually always the case, this is very much built-to-age and a wine that is going to need at least some bottle aging. Burghound 92-94
Note: from a 1.4 ha holding in Les Clos
40% oak for Les Clos, which retains its Hommage à Louis soubriquet. A bright pale colour. Subtly perfumed on the nose, white flowers in full summer, excellent marine freshness at the finish, understated but fine and persistent. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Jun 2025. Jasper Morris 92-94
