Article: 2023 William Fevre Chablis
2023 William Fevre Chablis
It’s hard to think of a producer that has been more on their game than William Fevre. Quietly purchased in January 2024 by the Rothschild family, it's been business as usual since for this perennial first rate Chablis producer. With 70 hectares in 90 different parcels, Domaine William Fevre is a force in Chablis. With sizable holdings in all the best crus, it's no wonder the Rothschild family went in with a blank check and paid an undisclosed sum, which you know was a bundle. To buy these quality vineyards, all in one, is likely a once in a generation shot.
After being thoroughly impressed with a lineup of 2020 and 2021 William Fevre, presented by winemaker Didier Seguier, who has been at the helm since 1998, I’ve gushed about this winery on a few occasions.
It’s important to note, as good as a terroir may be, it takes the skill of a human to craft the wines of distinction. The smile on Didier’s face as he proudly poured wine after wine, showcased a man at the top of his game. The cut, focus, minerality and salinity along with lip smacking acidity and energy are the reasons you drink Chablis. I have been selling William Fevre since the very early days of Vins Rare (2001), and although they had some issues with pre-mox (who didn’t) they adopted the Diam closure in 2008. As far as I can tell it seems to have fixed the problem. The wines have never been better!
Pale but glowing, a note of citron confit, an additional depth compared to the Fourchaume. More flesh but perfectly proportioned, fine and elegant, and very long indeed. This should be first class. Flavours will absolutely not go away! As much yellow as white but balanced. Drink from 2028-2036. Tasted Jun 2024.  Â
-Â Jasper Morris, 92-95 | 5 StarÂ
Prominent white flower aromas are nuanced by notes of algae, citrus confit and shellfish scents. The succulent yet nicely tension-filled flavors exude evident minerality on the sappy, more complex and more concentrated finish that delivers excellent length. The Fourchaume and Montée de Tonnerre are both quality efforts but this already has another dimension. Sweet Spot Outstanding! Â
- Burghound, 91-93Â
There is reasonably good typicity present on the more floral aromas of poached pear, lemon zest and shellfish-scented nose. There is again fine volume and mid-palate density to the delicious and vibrant medium-bodied flavors that terminate in a dry but not really austere finale. This surprisingly powerful effort could use better depth so at least a few years of cellaring should be beneficial.Â
- Burghound, 90-92
Lemon and lime in colour with a concentrated sunny but not exotic nose, plums not peaches. This embryonic Chablis tightens up quite considerably on the palate, reinforcing the sense of notable intensity. A light marmalade note that is not unpleasant infuses the finish. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Jun 2024. Â
- Jasper Morris, 91-94
An airy, expressive and beautifully layered nose speaks primarily of citrus, acacia blossom, iodine and shellfish nuances. There is excellent volume and mid-palate density to the solidly powerful and intense medium-bodied flavors that possess a sappy texture that carries over to the balanced, long and quite serious finale. This too is very classy and a wine that should amply repay up to a decade of keeping.Â
-Â Burghound, 92-94
A stunning nose, a little wrapping of seaweed around the stones. Perfectly balanced, then just when you are enjoying the subtlety, you sense the huge block of central white fruit as well. Only a little bit spicy, in fact even quite juicy at the finish. A long-term keeper, potentially a magnificent Preuses. The texture of a silk cravat suggests Didier Seguier. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Jun 2024.  Â
-Â Jasper Morris, 94-96 | 5 StarÂ
A riper yet more elegant nose freely offers up aromas of white flowers, mineral reduction, citrus zest, iodine and sea breeze wisps. There is fine precision and verve to the tension-filled medium weight plus flavors that exude a bracing salinity on the bitter lemon-tinged, youthfully austere and markedly dry finale. This very classy effort is also potentially outstanding. Â
- Burghound, 91-94
The usual lime tint to the pale colour. Wonderfully chiselled, not seeing the sunshine here, just the vineyard. A burst of concentrated fruit through the middle, a pure kimmeridgian streak of energy, breadth and depth together, powerful all the way through. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Jun 2024.  Â
- Jasper Morris, 93-95Â
A glowing lemon and lime colour. The bouquet is very backward at first, less demonstrative than Preuses. A greater richness of texture than Côte Bouguerots to add to the chiselled white fruit intensity and them a gorgeous, concentrated succulent aftertaste without sucrosity. Good acidity at the back. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Jun 2024.  Â
- Jasper Morris, 94-96
A more restrained nose grudgingly exhibits pronounced mineral reduction nuances that add breadth to the markedly floral nose of seashore, iodine and oyster shell scents. I very much like the mouthfeel of the powerful and concentrated larger-scaled flavors that are akin to rolling a small pebble around the mouth while displaying excellent length on the very dry, long, youthfully austere and balanced finish that is supported by overtly citrus-tinged acidity. Patience is strongly recommended.  Â
- Burghound, 92-94Â
