2023 Bitouzet Prieur
Over the past several years, I’ve written multiple times about what is happening at Bitouzet Prieur. If you haven’t received the memo yet, you may want to start paying attention because the wines have never been better.
In the past, Bitouzet Prieur may have been a producer one could call an underachiever. They own an impressive set of vineyards in both Volnay and Meursault. Vineyards like Clos Chenes, Caillerets, Charmes & Perrieres to name a few, but for years made average wines at best.
A lot has changed! We visited the new, state of the art winery a few years ago and spent at least two hours with Francois Bitouzet who explained developments since taking over for his parents in 2012.
For starters, the work in the vineyards shifted to organic farming and though it takes a few years, we are now seeing a big change in the quality of the fruit.
The biggest change has come in the way of the new, awe-inspiring winery. Imagine having a blank check and everything you could want implemented. On top of the gravity fed, custom sized fermentation tanks and temperature controls, it comes with ample space to work. This facility and these tools have allowed Francois to more precisely ferment and move the wines at their own pace, rather than be forced to move them due to the constrained space of their previous Volnay facility.
The quality of the wines here has been on a straight up trajectory - they are precise, focused wines, which are now representative of their incredible terroir. When you consider the prices at which they sell, it’s an easy choice for even the most discerning Burgundy collector.
2023 Bitouzet Prieur Volnay 1er Clos Chenes
Another intense purple colour. The bouquet has been knocked back a bit by a recent sulphur addition. No doubting the balanced intensity of the fruit, a correct degree of ripeness, the finish tightened up by the recent racking and treatments, but a wealth of classy dark berry fruit stretching out into a long finish. Needs more elevage to finish getting where it is going. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 91-93
The 2023 Volnay Clos des Chênes ler Cru is usually the standout amongst Bitouzet-Prieur's Premier Crus, and this is no different. Quite complex on the nose, it delivers a mélange of red and black fruit, iodine and incense, slightly richer than the 2022 yet still very well focused. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins and fine grip. Slightly bitter and sapid, it attenuates only slightly on the finish. Patience will be required.
- Vinous / Neal Martin, 91-93
2023 Bitouzet Prieur Meursault 1er Charmes
An even mid lemon yellow. The bouquet suggests a robust wine to follow, though less fruit up front. At the moment the bouquet has a temporary suggestion of something slightly rubbery which will come out with fining. Plenty going on, good structure, just the detail to refine. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 90-93
The 2023 Meursault Les Charmes ler Cru presents aromas of popcorn, hazelnut and smoke, not quite as sophisticated as the Santenots but far off. The palate is taut and fresh, with a veneer of wood that will integrate by the time of bottling. Richer in style, though not exotic, it offers a persistent peppery finish. Give this three or four years in bottle.
- Vinous Media / Neal Martin, 91-93
2023 Bitouzet Prieur Meursault 1er Perrieres
A fuller lemon yellow and the bouquet is making much more of a statement than the Charmes. A complex range of fruits, a little greengage alongside the pear and fresh peach, an adequate thread of acidity and excellent persistence. Even a little tannin to add grip. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.
-Jasper Morris 92-94
The 2023 Meursault Les Perrières ler Cru is a step up from the 2022 with more complexity and nuance on the nose, featuring crushed stone and pressed white flower scents. The palate is well balanced with lime and tangerine notes on entry. It may have lower acidity thar vintages due to the growing season, with gentle grip and moderate length. Perhaps the Les Charmes offers a bit more persistence? This is a decent Les Perrières, albeit not from the top drawer.
- Vinous/ Neal Martin, 91-93
