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Notes:
- Producer: Domaine Hubert Lamy is one of the leading estates of Saint-Aubin, founded by Hubert Lamy in 1973 and now directed by his son Olivier. Under Olivier, the domaine has become particularly associated with high-density planting, an approach intended to increase competition between vines and encourage deeper, more extensive root systems. His experiments began at Derrière Chez Edouard around 2000 and were subsequently extended to other holdings, including Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots and the domaine’s tiny parcel of Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet. The approach requires considerably more vineyard work than conventional Burgundy planting densities, but it has become one of the defining features of Lamy’s viticulture. In the cellar, Olivier favors larger-format barrels, including 350- and 600-liter vessels, and restrained use of new oak.
- Vineyard: Derrière Chez Edouard is a Saint-Aubin Premier Cru situated on the slopes above the village. The Haute Densité bottling comes from a particularly steep section planted at extraordinary densities reaching approximately 30,000 vines per hectare, compared with roughly 10,000 vines per hectare traditionally encountered in Burgundy. The original high-density section was planted around 2000, with another section planted after Lamy acquired additional land in 2007; densities vary between roughly 20,000 and 30,000 vines per hectare. The rows are approximately one meter apart, with vines spaced only about 30 centimeters from one another. The site is stony and strongly limestone-influenced with shallow topsoil, and the steepest high-density portion requires highly labor-intensive vineyard work. The cuvée is 100% Chardonnay.
- Winemaking: Olivier Lamy’s white-wine program is built around slow pressing, restrained extraction, larger-format oak and extended élevage. The domaine was an early adopter in the Côte de Beaune of 350- and 600-liter barrels, reducing the proportional influence of oak compared with traditional 228-liter pièces. Published technical information for recent vintages of Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité describes fermentation in 600-liter demi-muids with indigenous yeasts, followed by extended maturation on the fine lees. The wine is generally raised with little new oak, keeping the élevage secondary to the concentration generated by the vineyard itself. Because vintage-specific cellar information for the 2024 Haute Densité has not yet been published in enough detail to verify changes from previous releases, the exact 2024 élevage is best left unstated rather than extrapolated.
- Technical Details: 100% Chardonnay from the Saint-Aubin Premier Cru Derrière Chez Edouard. The Haute Densité sections are planted at approximately 20,000–30,000 vines per hectare, with the most densely planted portion reaching roughly three times conventional Burgundy density. The first experimental high-density vines were planted around 2000, followed by additional plantings later in the decade. The extreme density means individual vines carry very small crops, concentrating production into a remarkably small volume of wine. Wine Advocate reported only seven barrels of the 2022 Haute Densité, illustrating just how small production can be even in a generous vintage.
- Food Pairing: This is a Chardonnay with enough concentration and structure for substantial dishes while retaining the limestone-driven profile associated with Saint-Aubin. Excellent pairings include roasted turbot, Dover sole, scallops, lobster, sole meunière, roast chicken with morels, or veal with a light cream sauce. Mature Comté, Gruyère, or Brillat-Savarin would also work particularly well. Given the pedigree and structure of Haute Densité, simpler preparations that keep the focus on the wine are especially appropriate.
Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru "Derriere Chez Edouard" Haute Densite 2024
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