

91-94
BH
Notes:
This is also firmly reduced. By contrast, there is a lovely sense of freshness and verve suffusing the exceptionally rich and highly seductive medium-bodied flavors that brim with old vine sappy dry extract while exhibiting evident minerality on the superbly long, balanced and powerful finish. This is excellent and, along with the Combottes, almost always the domaine's best 1er. Burghound 91-94
Note: a blend of two lieux-dits with 50 to 100-year-old vines that is three-fourths Les Faconnières, and the remainder is from Les Chenevery
- Producer: Domaine Hubert Lignier is a historic family estate in Morey-Saint-Denis, with roots in the village extending back to the late 19th century. Hubert Lignier substantially expanded the domaine during the second half of the 20th century, and today the estate is directed by his son Laurent Lignier, working with the next generation of the family. Its vineyards span roughly 11 hectares and include an unusually deep collection of Côte de Nuits terroirs, from regional and village wines through Premier and Grand Crus including Clos de la Roche, Clos de Vougeot, Charmes-Chambertin and Mazoyères-Chambertin. Laurent favors long élevage and restrained cellar intervention, with the wines typically remaining on their fine lees for an extended period before bottling without fining or filtration. This Vieilles Vignes bottling holds a special place in the range: Laurent has described the blended Premier Cru as a personal favorite, and critics routinely place it among the strongest wines produced at the domaine.
- Vineyard: Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes combines two adjoining Premier Cru parcels immediately east of Clos de la Roche: 33 ares in Les Faconnières and 20 ares in Chenevery, for a total estate holding of 0.53 hectare. The Faconnières vines were planted in 1947 and 1960, while Chenevery contains even older plantings from 1936, 1942 and 1943. The domaine specifically notes that the soils closely resemble those of neighboring Clos de la Roche: they are exceptionally thin and lie over the same Middle Jurassic dalle nacrée, or pearly limestone, found in the Grand Cru. The old vines also show considerable millerandage, producing small clusters with tiny berries that contribute naturally concentrated fruit. The location is exceptional for a Premier Cru, with the two parcels sitting together directly below the Grand Cru sector on the northern side of Morey. In 2022, the combination of fully ripe fruit and freshness gave the wine both density and finesse; several critics singled it out as one of the domaine’s finest successes of the vintage.
- Winemaking: The wine is 100% Pinot Noir, harvested manually and vinified according to Laurent Lignier’s traditional approach. Fermentation occurs naturally in open vats, with maceration lasting approximately three weeks and extraction handled with restraint. For the 2022 Vieilles Vignes, élevage lasted approximately 20–22 months in French oak barrels, with a moderate proportion of new wood reported at roughly 20–30%. The extended barrel maturation allows the concentrated fruit and tannins from these very old vines to develop gradually while preserving the mineral profile supplied by the shallow limestone soils. The wine is subsequently bottled without fining or filtration. At 13% ABV, the 2022 has substantial concentration without excessive alcohol, and its balance of fruit, acidity, fine tannins and limestone-derived structure gives it significant potential for bottle development.
- Technical Details: Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru AOC; Vieilles Vignes; 2022 vintage; 100% Pinot Noir; 1.5-liter magnum; 0.53-hectare estate holding composed of 0.33 hectare in Les Faconnières and 0.20 hectare in Chenevery; Faconnières planted 1947 and 1960; Chenevery planted 1936, 1942 and 1943; located immediately east of Clos de la Roche; very thin soils over dalle nacrée limestone; naturally millerandé old vines; hand harvested; natural fermentation in open vats; approximately three-week maceration; 20–22 months in French oak; moderate new-oak component; bottled without fining or filtration; 13% ABV; 1.5L magnum format.
- Food Pairing: Roast duck, squab, guinea hen, côte de veau with chanterelles, rack of lamb, slow-roasted lamb shoulder, beef bourguignon, venison loin, porcini mushrooms, truffle risotto, Époisses, and aged Comté. The depth supplied by the old vines can comfortably handle lamb, veal and game birds, while the wine’s fine tannins and mineral backbone make mushrooms and truffles especially appropriate partners. The magnum format is also an excellent choice for extended cellaring and larger dinners where the wine can develop gradually in the glass.
Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes 2022 1.5L
Reviews:
Burghound: 91-94
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Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes 2022 1.5L
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