

94
BH
Notes:
Here too there is just a whiff of reduction that also stops short of overshadowing the ripe and beautifully layered aromas that are composed by notes of poached plum and a variety of spice elements. I very much like the texture of the delicious medium-bodied flavors that, even if not especially dense, still possess good power and minerality while delivering excellent depth and length on the balanced bitter pit fruit finish that really fans out as it sits on the palate. Excellent. Burghound 94
Note: from a .72 ha holding; 50% whole cluster
- Producer: Domaine Hubert Lignier is based in Morey-Saint-Denis and traces its roots to the late 19th century, with Hubert Lignier expanding the domaine and beginning estate bottling during the second half of the 20th century. Today the estate is directed by Hubert’s son Laurent Lignier, working with his family across approximately 11 hectares and more than 20 appellations. The domaine is particularly associated with Morey-Saint-Denis, where its holdings include village and Premier Cru vineyards as well as Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, one of the estate’s defining wines. Vineyard work emphasizes plowing, limited treatments, controlled yields, and hand harvesting. In the cellar, Laurent favors indigenous yeast fermentation, extended élevage on the lees, and minimal manipulation; the wines are generally bottled without fining or filtration. The resulting style emphasizes the individual character and structure of each terroir and is particularly suited to long aging.
- Vineyard: Clos de la Roche is one of the four Grand Crus of Morey-Saint-Denis, and Domaine Hubert Lignier owns approximately 0.90 hectare divided between two parcels. The larger parcel comprises 0.62 hectare in Monts Luisants, planted between 1955 and 1965 on a steep hillside reaching approximately 25% gradient, while another 0.28 hectare in Fremières was planted between 1953 and 1960. The soils are thin and composed of white limestone, clay, and marl over compact Middle Jurassic limestone locally known as dalle nacrée, or pearly limestone. These shallow, rocky soils contribute to the combination of mineral intensity, concentration, and firm structure for which Clos de la Roche is known. The domaine describes the vineyard as naturally producing deeply colored, aromatic and dense wines with concentrated but fine tannins and considerable aging capacity. 2022 was an excellent red Burgundy vintage, combining healthy, ripe fruit with freshness and giving Pinot Noir both concentration and aromatic clarity. In a naturally powerful Grand Cru such as Clos de la Roche, that balance produced a wine with substantial depth and mineral structure while retaining energy and precision.
- Winemaking: The 2022 is produced from 100% Pinot Noir, harvested by hand and fermented with indigenous yeasts. The domaine’s approach incorporates whole clusters according to the vintage and individual cuvée; the 2022 Clos de la Roche used approximately 50% whole clusters. Fermentation and extraction are handled gently, followed by a particularly long élevage of approximately 21–22 months on the fine lees. Oak is used to support the wine’s structure and development rather than dominate its fruit and terroir character. The extended maturation is an important component of Lignier’s style, allowing the substantial tannins and concentration of Clos de la Roche to develop gradually before bottling. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration. The 2022 combines the natural power of the vineyard with ripe Pinot Noir fruit, pronounced minerality, fine tannins, and a long, structured finish built for extended cellar development.
- Technical Details: Clos de la Roche Grand Cru AOC; Morey-Saint-Denis; 2022 vintage; 100% Pinot Noir; 1.5-liter magnum; approximately 0.90 hectare across two estate parcels; 0.62 hectare in Monts Luisants and 0.28 hectare in Fremières; vines largely planted between 1953 and 1965; slopes reaching approximately 25% in Monts Luisants; thin white limestone, clay, and marl soils over Middle Jurassic dalle nacrée limestone; hand harvested; indigenous yeast fermentation; approximately 50% whole cluster; extended élevage of approximately 21–22 months on fine lees; bottled without fining or filtration; approximately 13–13.5% ABV depending on the source. The magnum format provides a higher wine-to-oxygen ratio than a standard bottle and is particularly well suited to the long-term maturation of a structured Grand Cru Burgundy.
- Food Pairing: Roast duck, duck breast, squab, beef tenderloin, filet mignon, rack of lamb, venison loin, beef Wellington, coq au vin, braised short ribs, roast guinea hen, porcini mushrooms, truffle dishes, and aged Comté. Clos de la Roche’s combination of concentrated Pinot Noir fruit, fine tannins, mineral structure, and savory complexity works particularly well with roasted game birds, lamb, beef, mushrooms, and truffles. With significant bottle age, simpler preparations of duck, squab, or game can allow the wine’s developing tertiary character to remain the focus.
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94
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Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2022 1.5L
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