Notes:
Producer note: Bertrand Ambroise called 2009 a "very good vintage that gave us exceptionally rich, ripe and balanced wines that will drink well all of their lives. I obviously can't speak for the vintage in general but for our wines they are as good as the '05s even though the style is quite different. We began picking on the 12th of September and usually we put six people around the sorting table but in 2009, we had two and even that was probably one too many. This was due to something that is relatively rare in Burgundy, which is to say that we not only had a very clean crop but also highly uniform ripeness. As such, there really wasn't much to eliminate beyond the odd leaf, rock or bug. Even better, we had normal yields, which is to say between 35 to 40 hl/ha. Sugars were also strong without being excessive as they were in a range of 13 to 13.5%. We did a normal cuvaison of between 25 and 28 days and wound up with post malo pHs of 3.4 to 3.45, which is pretty much ideal. Overall, I love the vintage and believe that our clients will too." Ambroise has moved toward a somewhat more refined style over the years but this movement has been slow and he generally still makes robust, well-structured and age worthy wines. However, in 2009 his wines are noticeably less rustic and in fact, in the 11 years that I have been visiting as a professional, these are easily the best wines I have seen.
Tasting note: Like the Echézeaux, this is so heavily reduced that there is little to be discerned from the nose save for the elevated ripeness level. The mouth feel provides an interesting contrast as this is a huge, rich and powerful wine yet it's quite round and supple as the structure is completely buffered by all of the mid-palate sap, which also confers a velvety charm onto the magnificently long finish. This is one of those wines that despite being built to age will permit pleasurable examination along the way.
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