
96
BH
Notes:
Tasting note: This is also very cool and even more reserved at present, revealing only reluctant glimpses of very ripe and ultra spicy red and black berry fruit notes that are very pinot in character. The rich, full and powerful flavors are sweet, supple and utterly classy and the intensity this wine displays is seriously impressive and the superbly long and strikingly precise finish is crystalline in its purity and exactness. There is a rigorous element here that suggests this will require the better part of 15 years to be at its best but when it gets there, this is going to be a thrill ride. Readers know that I am not given to undue hyperbole but I love this style of wine as it's at once pure, understated, graceful and utterly composed. Burghound 96Producer note: The always thoughtful enologist Franois Millet called 2004 a "series of temperature fluctuations, flipping between cold and hot periods. August was difficult and very cool whereas September was magnificent. The weather in August was sufficiently cool that it helps to preserve the acidity and freshness though the hail storm on August 23rd gave us pause. Fortunately, the north wind blew thereafter and it dried out the damaged berries and made it somewhat easier to get rid of them at the harvest. We had no oidium but there was a lot of sorting to eliminate the dried berries. The reduction in yields was significant in Musigny and Les Amoureuses and we lost between 20 and 25% of the crop overnight. Sugars were good at around 13% with correct phenolic maturity but not exceptional. We were careful not to over extract because the essential quality of the vintage is its elegance and refinement with real freshness and perhaps the best underlying sense of minerality that we've seen in several vintages. I particularly like the refined tannins the vintage gave us. In fact, to me, 2004 does not really resemble any vintage in the last 20 years. Some people suggest 2001 as a parallel but here at de Vog, the acidity was more prominent whereas the 2004s are elegant wines through and through because the elegance comes from within." As the notes and scores suggest, this is an exceptionally impressive group of 2004s but the wine that really stands out relative to its usual position in the range is the Bonnes Mares. All I could say was 'wow' when it was presented.
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2004
Reviews:
Burghound: 96
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