William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru "Les Clos" 2004 bottle - Vins Rare

95- BH

96 WA

94 VM

Notes:

Stephen Tanzer Int'l Wine Cellar, Nov/Dec 2006($100) Pale straw-yellow. Aromas of iodine, crushed stone, flint and oatmeal. Wonderfully sweet and creamy, with its pliant mouthfeel firmed by vibrant minerality. Finishes taut and racy, with terrific lift. Very young but not at all hard. This is already suave. 94 points

Allen Meadows, Burghound October 2006
Stylistically, this closely resembles the Valmur with its ultra elegant and pure aromas featuring white flowers, oyster shell and subtle spice notes that perfectly complement the round, powerful, rich and full-bodied flavors that coating the mouth and culminate in a saliva-inducing, incredibly intense finish that reminded me more than a little of a great Corton-Charlemagne. This just oozes minerality and the texture is minerally to the point of this resembling a block of stone. A great Les Clos. 95 points

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 05
Utterly primary aromas of silex, mint, quinine and ginger, lifted by floral perfume. Sweet, broad, dense and very young; fat but not at all heavy, with a suggestion of lactic, leesy reduction. Quite supple, even gentle, for this great grand cru. Very long, slow-mounting finish coats the palate with dusty stone. Today the huge Valmur is almost more focused and classic. 92-94

Stylistically, this closely resembles the Valmur with its ultra elegant and pure aromas featuring white flowers, oyster shell and subtle spice notes that perfectly complement the round, powerful, rich and full-bodied flavors that coating the mouth and culminate in a saliva-inducing, incredibly intense finish that reminded me more than a little of a great Corton-Charlemagne. This just oozes minerality. A great Les Clos. Burghound Oct '05 - 92-95 Points - Dont Miss!

Producer note: Régisseur Didier Séguier describes the 2004 vintage as one where we were "not very optimistic before the harvest. The summer was cold and damp with less than ideal luminosity. Oidium was a problem for many domaines though we managed to control it, mainly because I expected an attack because of what we had seen in 2003. Oidium is one of those things where if you wait for the initial signs, it's already too late and thus having seen the potential signs the prior year gave us a leg up in treating it. Thankfully, we had an absolutely perfect September and seriously, you could not have asked for better conditions. It was really warm as well, which is to say between 35 and 39° C and there was actually a day or two when I began to worry if we would have grilled bunches the way we did in some parcels in 2003. We had done a lot of leaf thinning to make sure we didn't have rot and thus there was less protection from the sun. However, the heat didn't persist and even though we had big, big quantity because of the vines compensation from the heavily reduced quantities in 2003, everything ripened ideally. A big quantity for us means between 50 and 60 hl/ha for the 1ers and grands crus and this is the highest yields we've had since our first harvest in 1998. We didn't begin picking until September 29th and oddly enough, we had fewer bunches than normal but the bunches themselves were huge and with very large berries. Normally this results in lower levels of dry extract with a concomitant reduction in mid-palate concentration yet the mouth feel of the '04s is really quite impressive. Overall, sugar levels were very good if not spectacular at between 10.5 and 11.5 for the villages parcels and 11 to 12.5% for the upper level wines. There was lots of malic acid but even so, the after malo pHs were excellent at between 3.15 and 3.35. Here at Fèvre, 2004 is a blend of 2000 and 2002 and while 2004 is not quite at the level of 2002, it isn't far off. I really like the style of the vintage because each and every terroir expresses itself well. It's as though the transparency puts the sometimes subtle differences between one cru and another on center stage. One of the reasons for this, again here at Fèvre, is that just like in 2003, we did no bâtonnage at all in 2004. I don't know that this is the reason per se that we obtained such good transparency but it's something we're looking at closely moving forward." At the time of my late June visit, the plan was to begin bottling the upper level '04s in December and January.

Vins Rare