Ramonet Boudriotte 2022

Last week, on a particularly warm and magical spring evening, I returned to our accommodations at La Maison de Pommard—just ten minutes south of Beaune—after visiting my supplier for Jean-Claude Ramonet. We had arranged a private dinner with a local chef, so I asked for a couple of bottles to mark the occasion.

I returned feeling like Eric the Red, victorious, carrying both a white and a red: Ramonet Morgeot blanc and the 2022 Clos de la Boudriotte rouge. Two contrasting and compelling wines, each representing a different side of Chassagne-Montrachet.

We opened the Morgeot first. As expected, it delivered beautifully—rich, expressive, and deeply satisfying. I couldn’t help but think the Boudriotte would struggle to follow.

But then we pulled the cork.

The nose alone stopped us. Aromatics of red and black cherry leapt from the glass—intoxicating, layered, and constantly evolving. Each swirl revealed something new. On the palate, it was dense yet precise, with a texture that coated the mouth and lingered effortlessly. It was so compelling, so complete, that the Morgeot—an exceptional wine in its own right—was quietly abandoned.

This is the story.

For decades, Chassagne-Montrachet has been synonymous with white Burgundy. Fifty years ago, however, the vineyards were dominated by Pinot Noir. The deeper clay soils favored it, but in a cooler climate, ripening was inconsistent and the wines were often difficult to sell. By the 1970s, many growers replanted with Chardonnay, shaping the identity we know today.

But the producers who held onto their Pinot Noir—now working with vines 50+ years old—are seeing a different reality. Warmer vintages have unlocked the full potential of these sites. The results are undeniable.

Even knowing all of this, it’s still surprising when you experience it firsthand. This shift is real. And it’s happening now.

At $115, this is not inexpensive—but in today’s Burgundy landscape, it dramatically overdelivers. A serious wine that deserves your full attention.