Peter Michael

One of the benefits of tasting wine for as long as I have is that you eventually learn what excites you. For me, that usually means looking across the Atlantic. Most of the wines that make their way through Vins Rare come from Europe, so it isn't often that I spend much time exploring domestic releases.

Then every once in a while, something interrupts that routine.

When the opportunity to purchase a small allocation of Peter Michael came along, I was certainly interested. The estate has been one of California's benchmark producers for decades, and a couple of early releases of Point Rouge have always kept me paying attention.

But reputations can only carry a winery so far. Eventually, the wine has to speak for itself.

The rep brought the 2024 Peter Michael La Carrière Chardonnay in the other day. I have to say — wow, I didn't expect you to pull that out.

Intrigued by the first pour, I stuck my nose in the glass and was immediately struck by the aromatics: a sunny disposition with a layer of faint orange blossom and hints of lime. What really surprised me was the palate. The flavors were expansive, but an amazing bead of energy and minerality brought everything into focus. The fruit was pure, the oak beautifully integrated, and the texture seemed more fitting for Meursault than Sonoma. I poured a second glass, and as I contemplated it for a moment, I found myself thinking less about where it came from and more about how complete the wine felt.

I don't usually respond this way to California Chardonnay, but this had another gear. The rep smiled and said Galloni gave it 97 points. I don't always agree with the reviews, but in this case I think he got it right.