Charles Fagot

One of the first things I look at when selecting Burgundy wines isn't always the appellation — it's the age of the vines.

Old vines don't automatically make a great wine, but they do give a vigneron a starting point, as more often than not the old vines produce lower yields of extremely concentrated fruit. In the hands of a conscientious grower, the wines tend to have an extra dimension, added texture and complexity. Those are exactly the qualities that drew me to Jean-Charles Fagot Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes Rouge nearly a decade ago.

The fruit comes from a small family parcel planted in the 1950s. I had the chance to visit and meet Charles this past March at his restaurant in Chassagne-Montrachet. We shared a bottle of the newly released 2024 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge over lunch, and it reminded me why I actively seek out the red wines from Chassagne. The nose is wonderfully expressive, with vibrant red fruit and subtle earthy notes, while the palate offers beautiful balance, silky texture, and impressive length.

There was a time, not that many years ago, when red Chassagne-Montrachet felt like the wine in the parcel you had to take as a penalty to get some of a producer's white. Today I find myself asking many of the growers for their red Chassagne, as they offer some of the best values anywhere in Burgundy. Charles Fagot is one of those producers. If you haven't yet discovered the magic of Chassagne-Montrachet rouge, this is a good place to start — Charles has crafted another outstanding effort.