First Look 2024 White Burgundy
In November, much of the trade descends into Burgundy’s cellars to taste through the latest vintage, and the early reports are now beginning to trickle in. Although my own schedule didn’t align with a trip this year, I’ve spoken at length with several colleagues whose palates I trust implicitly. The consensus: at domaines where farming is meticulous and winemaking precise, the results are remarkably positive. The producers you would expect to excel have crafted classic wines with freshness, lift, and energy. The challenge, however, is volume — this is one of the smallest harvests in decades.
If you read Burghound’s recent Chablis report, you’ll recall that rain was a dominant theme. Much of that same story applies across the Côte d’Or. The region saw more rainfall over the growing season than most can remember, often so much that growers couldn’t even get tractors into the vineyards. For organic and biodynamic vignerons, the season tested their resolve; many ultimately abandoned those practices simply to ensure they had fruit to harvest.
It was, by all accounts, a grueling year. Frost in April was largely avoided, a small mercy, but the months that followed brought very little sun. A poor flowering in June set the stage for reduced yields, and disease pressure, especially mildew, quickly became a constant threat. With tractors stuck on soaked ground, mildew spread aggressively. Several growers described the experience to me as a daily battle to protect the parcels that hadn’t yet been touched.
As you might imagine, the best sites — rocky soils, proper slope, good airflow — fared considerably better, and that’s where smart buying should be focused. From the small amount of fruit that was ultimately harvested, many growers have produced truly compelling wines. Despite the difficulties of the season, several people have described the results as some of the most classically styled wines in recent memory: leaner, fresher, and more mineral, without the richness that has defined recent warm vintages.
Today’s offer highlights several of our favorite bottlings. Quantities are EXTREMELY limited. Please secure yours while you can.
