Article: Domaine Henri Magnien
Domaine Henri Magnien
Over the last 6 years I’ve watched first hand the remarkable transformation that has taken place at Domaine Henri Magnien in Gevrey-Chambertin. I’ve had the privilege of not only developing a friendship but an understanding of the thought process of Charles Magnien, now the seventh generation to lead this historic estate.
Charles took on responsibility at a remarkably young age. He began working alongside his father and was entrusted with the domaine in 2007. In 2015, after purchasing the remaining family shares, he assumed full control. That was the true turning point, when his vision for the future began to take shape and all decisions were completely his own.
It is common for a new generation to put their own name on the label as a statement of change. Charles chose a different path. Rather than rebrand the estate under his own name, he honored his grandfather by keeping Henri Magnien on the label. He did, however, introduce a much needed label re-design to signify the rebirth of this Estate.
I use the word rebirth as the Magnien family first settled in Gevrey Chambertin in the 1600’s - in fact the family home still exists today in the same location at the base of Les Cazetiers.
Charles has been working the vineyard organically for as long as he can remember and often refers to them as his garden, heck they are literally in his back yard.
His major undertaking was a complete renovation of the winery. Out with the old equipment and in came new customs stainless steel fermentation tanks with state of the art temperature control, which has proved essential, especially the last several vintages where temperatures were scorching at harvest. This new equipment allows him to cool the grapes before fermentation, but also to regulate the temperatures during fermentation which contributes to the seamless elegant style the domaine now achieves.
The heart of this Domaine is rooted in the enviable array of 1er Cru Gevrey Chambertin vineyards which is what I wanted to highlight here today.
Its difficult to tell from a flat map, but I like to think of the 1er Crus as sitting in the back of the village, somewhat behind the Grand Crus orientation wise and shifted to the north. They share the same mineral rich soils, face east and slope run up to the forest at an elevation of 300 meters. Its slightly cooler as the influence from the combe allows cooler air to flow down from the north.
Having a long history in grape growing the family has developed what is referred to as the “Magnien clone” a vine that produces small berries, thick skins with incredible concentration. There is no shortage of old vines on the estate as a number of the plots have been planted just after the first world war.
I know many of you have discovered these fabulous wines on my recommendation as well as from the amazing press these wines have and continue to receive. I still come across people that tell me they know Henri Magnien and tell me they have had the wines before. They associate the wines with the Magnien brothers from Morey St Denis. THESE WINES HAVE ABSOLUTELY NOTHING IN COMMON OTHER THAN THE SHARED NAME.
As Burgundy pricing has been on a straight up trajectory over the years, many of the wines from the famous villages have become out of reach for most. One of the biggest reasons I so much like working with Charles, not only are they of tremendous quality, they offer arguably some of the best value in any burgundy wine on the market today. I taste 100’s of wines every month - I’ve drank most every great bottle produced in the last 30 years - I’m still waiting for someone to bring me something that comes close to these wines in terms of quality anywhere close to the price. You are lucky today to buy a village wine at the price of these 1er Crus.
There is a reason Im able to offer these wines at such amazing prices. I buy the wines directly from the estate, Import them myself and pass along direct to consumer pricing without the distributor markup. These are truly cellar direct! Through this weekend I’m going to offer a 20% discount across the entire range (big bottles as well) - discount will apply automatically at check out. There is not a better set of 1er Cru Burgundy wines in the market today. Buy these with confidence as they come with my 100% Money Back Guarantee. If you don’t agree, I will pay to ship them back and credit your entire purchase - including the bottle you drank! All In Stock - Ready To Ship
VINEYARD DETAILS:
8 assembled plots aged between 40 and over 100 years
Climate names = Epointure - Coffins - Field - Fields - Billiards -
- Crais - Champerrier (partially)
Surface = 1.5724 ha
This is a wine that continues to evolve in bottle. I have left the cork out of this one for a couple of days, only to return to a wine that shows beautiful perfume and silky elegance. It does drink well young (with some air) but telling you this one in 5 years is going to be absolutely tremendous. No better value in Gevrey!
The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes comes from eight parcels toward the north of the village. There is certainly more complexity than the Village on the nose. It is well-knit and focused with brambly red fruit tones commingling with briar and iris flower notes. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins, gentle grip and a subtle salinity toward the finish. This should age with style in bottle.
- Vinous Media / Neal Martin, 91
VINEYARD DETAILS:
8 assembled plots aged between 40 and over 100 years
Climate names = Epointure - Coffins - Field - Fields - Billiards -
- Crais - Champerrier (partially)
Surface = 1.5724 ha
This is a wine that continues to evolve in bottle. I have left the cork out of this one for a couple of days, only to return to a wine that shows beautiful perfume and silky elegance. It does drink well young (with some air) but telling you this one in 5 years is going to be absolutely tremendous. No better value in Gevrey!
VINEYARD DETAILS:
1 single plot of 60 years of average age
Area = 0.3331 ha
This plot sits at the very top of the vineyard just below the tree line and is one of the coolest climates in Gevrey. Charles says the soil here is exactly the same as in Corton Charlemagne - and would be ideally suited for Chardonnay. This wine is the coolest and most linear in the lineup.
Medium crimson colour. Fine and racy, elegant pinot here on this very white soil. Then it kicks on really very well on the palate, a lacy touch, silky across the refined tannins and with a long graceful finish. Very good. Charles held back and picked the Estournelles on September 15th, a decision which seems to have paid off Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Nov 2024.
- Jasper Morris 92-95
VINEYARD DETAILS:
2 plots - average age 80 years
Area = 0.2610 ha
This wine has depth and power with a real old vine sapiness.
A restrained but classic Gevrey nose is composed of plenty of sauvage and forest floor nuances on the mostly dark berry fruit scents. As one would reasonably expect, there is better volume, power and muscle to the bigger-bodied, if less refined, flavors that brim with minerality on the solidly persistent and firmer finale. While the Estournelles and the Lavaux are qualitatively similar, they offer two very different impressions.
- Burghound, 92 Outstanding!
A much more concentrated colour than Estournelles. A vigorous fresh purple raspberry fruit, really striking alongside the finesse of the previous wine. This is completely mouthfilling and does not come across as clumsy even behind the lacy Estournelles. The fruit swamps the tannins, and the finish is very consistent. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Nov 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 93-95
VINEYARD DETAILS:
7 plots - average age 80 years ---->
the only winegrower to have the line
from bottom to top which crosses
the 4 terroirs of Cazetiers!
Area = 1.4769 ha
This is the King of the Cellar! The only producer owning a continuous plot stretching from the base of the hill to the treeline, much in the same orientation as the neighbors to the south in Clos St Jacques. The family home sits at the base of the vineyard where they have lived since first coming to Gevrey in the 1600’s. This is what great Burgundy is all about!
Subtle wood influence can be found on the spicy and ripe aromas of poached plum and floral nuances, especially violet. The sleek, delineated and powerful flavors are a mix of the refinement and minerality of the Estournelles St. Jacques with the power and muscle of the Lavaut St. Jacques, all wrapped in a more complex, longer and more structured finale. This is excellent and warmly recommended.
- Burghound, 93
An even crimson ruby colour. The fruit is more immediate than the Ruchottes. This is seamless across the palate and leaves a gorgeously balanced feeling of little red fruits at the finish, entirely covering the tannins, which in any case are refined. There is a little minerality too as befits Cazetiers. Really a lovely stylish finale. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Nov 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 94-96
