Bitouzet - Clos des Chenes

My last few emails on Bitouzet-Prieur have centered on the whites, and with good reason. One could argue the domaine is becoming more well known for its whites than it’s reds. Today, I want to focus on one of the standout reds in the lineup: Volnay 1er Cru Clos de Chênes.

What François Bitouzet has accomplished since moving into the new, state of the art facility is remarkable. He has reshaped the perception of this historic estate, elevating it to a level where it is now firmly regarded among the most respected domaines in Burgundy.

Bitouzet-Prieur itself was born from the union of two deeply rooted Burgundian families. The Bitouzet family, established in Volnay since the early 1800s, brought with them some of the finest parcels in the village. Through François’ mother, Annie Prieur, the Prieur family contributed prized holdings in Meursault and Ladoix, vineyards long associated with exceptional white wines. The marriage of Vincent Bitouzet and Annie Prieur united these assets, forming the foundation of the estate as we know it today.

I have followed this domaine since the early days of my Burgundy career. I still remember visiting in the early 90s, often pairing the stop with Domaine Lafarge next door. Back then, the wines were unapologetically traditional: firm tannins, rustic texture, bright acidity, and the kind of structure that demanded decades of patience.

The style today remains structured, but it is far more polished and precise. Clos de Chênes, arguably Volnay’s top premier cru, naturally carries power and backbone. I recently opened a bottle for a client and was struck by the aromatic intensity. Black fruit, rose petal, and spice jumped from the glass, and with air the wine broadened and deepened beautifully. It is dense yet lifted, structured yet graceful. This is a serious bottle that will reward additional cellar time, but all the elements are already in place.

I’ve always felt that Volnay from the top sites can rival many wines from the Côte de Nuits. I love pouring them blind, because that signature rose petal perfume and broad, structured frame often send tasters straight to Vosne-Romanée. Clos de Chênes has that same quiet authority, and its pedigree is unquestionable. In today’s market, finding this level of Burgundy for under $100 is increasingly rare. It delivers a complete, classic experience now and will continue to gain complexity for years to come. In stock and highly recommended.