2023 William Fevre Chablis
I’ve been writing lately about Chablis, as I have been somewhat on a quest to secure some of the best of what is currently still available in the market. We are staring 2024 right in the face and lets just say the last couple of vintages have turned out far better!
I’ve been out to a couple of dinners lately with clients who always seem to be opening a bottle of Raveneau from their cellars. While nobody is ever mad at Raveneau, except the price, the conversation always shifts to what other Chablis are you buying?
I blinded the group the other day on a 2004 Fevre Preuses. Not only did it hold its own, people were guessing it to be another Raveneau!! I guess the point I’m trying to make is that Domaine William Fevre is very much (as one client stated) a “ slept on producer .” They suffered some premox issues in the early 2000’s (who didn’t) but they were one of the first producers to adopt the diam closure which seems to have fixed the problem. If you know anything about the vineyards of Chablis, it could be argued they have what can only be described as some of the finest holdings. There is a reason the Rothschild group quietly stepped in and bought the Domaine last year for an undisclosed sum.
Longtime winemaker, Didier Seguier, has been firing on all cylinders for a while now. I had a spirited conversation with him last year at the Paulee in Los Angeles. I won’t go as far as saying he had the best wine in the room that day, I will say that the lineup of 2022 grand crus he poured were only slightly eclipsed by Lafon Perriers… on that day!
2023 William Fevre Chablis 1er Montee de Tonnerre
Pale but glowing, a note of citron confit, an additional depth compared to the Fourchaume. More flesh but perfectly proportioned, fine and elegant, and very long indeed. This should be first class. Flavours will absolutely not go away! As much yellow as white but balanced. Drink from 2028-2036. Tasted Jun 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 92-95 | 5 Star
Prominent white flower aromas are nuanced by notes of algae, citrus confit and shellfish scents. The succulent yet nicely tension-filled flavors exude evident minerality on the sappy, more complex and more concentrated finish that delivers excellent length. The Fourchaume and Montée de Tonnerre are both quality efforts but this already has another dimension. Sweet Spot Outstanding!
- Burghound, 91-93
There is reasonably good typicity present on the more floral aromas of poached pear, lemon zest and shellfish-scented nose. There is again fine volume and mid-palate density to the delicious and vibrant medium-bodied flavors that terminate in a dry but not really austere finale. This surprisingly powerful effort could use better depth so at least a few years of cellaring should be beneficial.
- Burghound, 90-92
Lemon and lime in colour with a concentrated sunny but not exotic nose, plums not peaches. This embryonic Chablis tightens up quite considerably on the palate, reinforcing the sense of notable intensity. A light marmalade note that is not unpleasant infuses the finish. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Jun 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 91-94
An airy, expressive and beautifully layered nose speaks primarily of citrus, acacia blossom, iodine and shellfish nuances. There is excellent volume and mid-palate density to the solidly powerful and intense medium-bodied flavors that possess a sappy texture that carries over to the balanced, long and quite serious finale. This too is very classy and a wine that should amply repay up to a decade of keeping.
- Burghound, 92-94
A stunning nose, a little wrapping of seaweed around the stones. Perfectly balanced, then just when you are enjoying the subtlety, you sense the huge block of central white fruit as well. Only a little bit spicy, in fact even quite juicy at the finish. A long-term keeper, potentially a magnificent Preuses. The texture of a silk cravat suggests Didier Seguier. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Jun 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 94-96 | 5 Star
A riper yet more elegant nose freely offers up aromas of white flowers, mineral reduction, citrus zest, iodine and sea breeze wisps. There is fine precision and verve to the tension-filled medium weight plus flavors that exude a bracing salinity on the bitter lemon-tinged, youthfully austere and markedly dry finale. This very classy effort is also potentially outstanding.
- Burghound, 91-94
The usual lime tint to the pale colour. Wonderfully chiselled, not seeing the sunshine here, just the vineyard. A burst of concentrated fruit through the middle, a pure Kimmeridgian streak of energy, breadth and depth together, powerful all the way through. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Jun 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 93-95
A glowing lemon and lime colour. The bouquet is very backward at first, less demonstrative than Preuses. A greater richness of texture than Côte Bouguerots to add to the chiselled white fruit intensity and them a gorgeous, concentrated succulent aftertaste without sucrosity. Good acidity at the back. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Jun 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 94-96
A more restrained nose grudgingly exhibits pronounced mineral reduction nuances that add breadth to the markedly floral nose of seashore, iodine and oyster shell scents. I very much like the mouthfeel of the powerful and concentrated larger-scaled flavors that are akin to rolling a small pebble around the mouth while displaying excellent length on the very dry, long, youthfully austere and balanced finish that is supported by overtly citrus-tinged acidity. Patience is strongly recommended.
- Burghound, 92-94
2022 William Fevre Chablis 1er Vaulorent
Some of the Vaulorent may be taken out to make a separate Fourchaumes bottling, that decision has not yet been made. More lime than lemon in colour, the nose is so stylish yet with obvious concentration beneath. I love the texture of this wine, which has taken on a little bit of the cashmere qualities of this sector, while nonetheless retaining its mineral core. Very stylish once again. Drink from 2027-2037. Tasted Jun 2023.
- Jasper Morris, 92-95 | 4 Star
Subtle wood influence can be found on the almost as elegant but beautifully layered nose of citrus confit, acacia blossom and wet stone scents. The rich, very generous and solidly powerful larger-bodied flavors are not quite as mineral-driven though they are even more concentrated, all wrapped in a beautifully balanced, long and complex finale. This is also impressive and one to consider, especially if you intend to age it.
- Burghound, 92
Note: from a huge 3.63 ha parcel out of only 17 ha and most of it is hard by Les Preuses. Séguier calls this their "baby grand cru" as specific barrels are selected for vine age, concentration and power
An elegant, pure and wonderfully airy nose more freely reflects its aromas of white flowers, prominent mineral reduction and plenty of seashore elements. There is at once more volume but, somewhat surprisingly, even better refinement to the medium weight plus flavors that retain excellent detail while also flashing an almost pungent stoniness on the driving, firm and impeccably well-balanced finale. One to look for as this is very impressive.
- Burghound, 92-94 Sweet Spot Outstanding!
From multiple plots: east facing kimmeridgian marl in Pied d’Aloue (0.50ha), one hectare in Chapelot, (more soil here, fatter wine), then the rest in Bréchain, where vines dating back to 1936, give tension. What a beautiful bouquet. This has the sensual aspect of a delightful sunny summer, yet with an entrancing freshness behind. This is quintessential right bank, yet with balance Drink from 2027-2037. Tasted Jun 2023.
- Jasper Morris 93-95 | 5 Star
|| Last Bottles in stock ||
This is aromatically quite similar to the Cte Bouguerots but with more floral influence. The rich, big-bodied and tautly muscular flavors are also seemingly chiseled from Kimmeridgian, all wrapped in a wonderfully persistent, very dry, balanced and stony finale. This is also extremely impressive and equally built to repay extended cellaring
- Burghound, 93-95 - Don't Miss!
Mostly from old vines, a good half planted between 1948 and 1952. Translucent lemon and lime colour. The bouquet is not ready to unfurl yet there is a sense of sublime purity about the nose. A wine in perfect harmony on its wide bench of white fruit. Just a little touch of spice behind, good acidity. Sign up for this! Drink from 2032-2045. Tasted Jun 2023.
- Jasper Morris 95-98 | 5 Stars
