2023 Latour Giraud
In the world of white Burgundy, Latour Giruard flies relatively under the radar. This is a producer I have been quietly selling for the last 15 years and have seen a strong uptick in the quality, especially over the last 6-8 years. It should come as no surprise, as they own enviable Meursault terroir: Perrieres, Genevrieres, Charmes and a prime parcel in Champs Canet, just across the border in Puligny Montrachet. With two hectares in Genevrieres, they are by far the largest owner and it’s arguably their top cuvee.
There are no grand crus in Meursualt, but you could make the argument for Perrieres, Charmes and Genevrieres as they all sit high on the slope at a very similar orientation to the Grand Crus in neighboring Pugliny Montrachet. Needless to say these are prime locations where some of the best Chardonnay is being produced from these limestone rich soils.
Jean Pierre Latour took over the family estate in the 1990s. He has adopted an organic approach to farming and works diligently to keep yields in the 25-35 hectoliter per hectare range. Considerable investment has been made over the years in the winery with the purchase of pneumatic presses, temperature controlled stainless steel fermenting tanks, as well as modern de-stemmers and crushers. Jean-Pierre ferments only free run juice with wild, natural yeasts. The wines are aged on their lees and are fined, but not filtered, and bottled by hand.
The Latour Giraud wines are classic white Burgundies; intense and concentrated, but at the same time stylish and precise. The nose leads with scents of citrus but also pear, quince and white flower nuances can be found. They are very true to their appellation, something I appreciate tremendously – that undeniable mouth coating richness that screams Meursault. At the same time, there is a streak of minerality and razor sharp acidity that leaves your mouth watering as the flavors build on your mid palate to electrify your senses.
These are truly show stopping wines!
If you have not checked in with Latour Giraud in the last 3-4 vintages, I can't recommend them highly enough. I’d argue that these wines rival the biggest names in Meursault and are very much among the top tier of white Burgundy being produced today.
A paler lemon colour. More chiselled on the nose than the village blend. A little whiff of coconut from the oak. A more cerebral wine. Every bit as much intensity, arguably more, in a linear style with the energy growing steadily to the back of the palate. A fine long white fruit finish, the oak entirely integrated. Persistent. The vines are in Les Gorges de Narvaux Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 90-92
Half and half between upper and lower Charmes. A bright rich lemon colour. Attractive but not especially demonstrative. Offering breadth and depth, there is no edge to the fruit, a significant mouthful of white orchard fruit, mostly at the back of the palate, intelligent oaking, correct acidity, and very persistent. I find more character in one or two of Jean-Pierre Latour’s wines but this is properly Charmes. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 91-94
Mid yellow, with a really beautiful succulent nose, picked at perfect ripeness, and not hiding the delicacy and detail of fine Genevrières. Some lime, some verbena, delicate fresh apples, back to the lime blossom, then a really fine boned framework on the palate. Tingles the tastebuds in the most delicious way. A beautifully crafted 2023 Genevrières. Drink from 2029-2037. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 93-96
Mid lemon yellow, the weight and the sumptuous feel are certainly present. this is plump but within its corsets, ripe pears, a little citrus wash, plenty of weight. Good acidity, a certain crunchiness. Not quite so in place today as the Genevrières and with a little more warmth at the back, but Perrières majesty is certainly present. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 92-94
Mid lemon yellow. Nutty, sunny, still fine, less power. You can tell this needed to be picked at the start, as the acidity though still correct is less evident. The vines are on SO4 rootstock, which encourages early ripening. Rays of sunshine across the palate, and Puligny delicacy. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 91-93
