2022 Billaud Simon Chablis
If you have been buying Chablis for any length of time, you have surely encountered the wines from Billaud Simon. Personally, they are my reference point producer making terroir driven Chablis.
The Billaud Simon family arrived in Chablis in 1815, nine generations have tended these Kimmeridgian soils and built one of the most respected Domaines in the region. In that time they had amassed 17 hectares (42 acres) of arguably some of the best plots in all of Chablis, Les Clos, Preuses and Montee de Tonnerre to name a few.
In 2014, in what may have seemed like in the cover of darkness, famed Burgundy producer Domaine Faively negotiated a deal to acquire the Domaine and its vineyards for an undisclosed sum…what may have seemed like a huge number at the time instantly gave Faiveley a dominating presence in Chablis as one of the larger landholders with an enviable array of vineyards.
Oliver Bailly has been in charge of the winemaking since 2014 when Faiveley took over. Much of the philosophy has remained the same. Terroir driven wines, focusing on freshness and energy showcasing the purity of what the unique Chablis terroir offers.
I’ve followed this domaine for as long as I can remember. I’ve drank countless bottles over the years, and the one thing I can say with certainty is if you can keep your hands off them for a number of years, what develops in the bottle can be absolutely magical. A 2010 Montee de Tonnerre opened over this summer is a wine I can still vividly remember. Liquid minerals that showed the perfect balance between richness and freshness - it was everything you could ever want Chablis to be. When you look at what the price is for Raveneau and Dauvissat these days, i think the smart money buys a 6pk of Billaud Simon instead!
2022 Billaud Simon Chablis
Here there is notably better typicity with its nose of ripe pear, mineral reduction and algae. The sleek, delicious and more voluminous flavors that possess solid mid-palate density while displaying good precision on the clean, dry and sneaky long finale. This is worth checking out.
- Burghound, Outstanding Top Value - 89-91 Points
Moderate though also easily detectable wood is present on the nose of iodine, white flowers and a hint of oyster shell. The markedly finer middleweight flavors exude evident minerality that adds a sense of lift to the balanced, nicely dry and impressively long finish that displays the natural class of a fine MdT. As with many of these 2022s, it could use more depth but the style is lovely and understated.
- Burghound, 91 Outstanding!
Here the wood is subtle though easily perceptible on the mildly exotic aromas of white and yellow peach, orange peel and moderate Chablis elements. On the palate the larger-bodied and more concentrated flavors are also generously proportioned while concluding in a balanced, dry and powerful finish. This could use more depth so a few years of keeping should again prove beneficial.
- Burghound, 91 Outstanding!
2022 Billaud Simon Chablis Grand Cru Preuses
More moderate wood influence stops short of overshadowing the attractively spicy, pure and floral nose of shellfish, sea breeze and quinine. The medium-bodied flavors are rich to the point of opulence thanks to the abundance of sappy dry extract that also serves to buffer the firm acid spine shaping the wonderfully complex, persistent and balanced finale. Excellent and the best wine in the range, hands down.
- Burghound, 94
