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93
WA
Notes:
The 2020 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert seems to have put on weight since last tasted from barrel, improving with its élevage. Faint herbal notions and a bit of crushed stone accent black cherries on the nose. In the mouth, this wine is full-bodied, ripe and round, with supple tannins and a long, velvety finish. It's evolved into a really solid example of the cuvée, with a slightly baked-fruit character, but it works. Wine Advocate 93
- Producer: Paul Jaboulet Aîné was founded in 1834 in Tain-l’Hermitage and remains one of the historic names of the Northern Rhône. The same year the house was founded, the Jaboulet family acquired Domaine de Thalabert, beginning a relationship with this vineyard that now approaches two centuries. Since 2006, the estate has been owned by the Frey family and led by winemaker Caroline Frey, who has placed considerable emphasis on organic and biodynamic farming and increasingly precise work in both the vineyards and cellar. Thalabert remains one of the estate’s most important wines and a reference point for Crozes-Hermitage. What makes it particularly interesting is its continuity: this is not simply a négociant bottling assembled from fruit throughout the appellation, but a wine tied to a historic estate vineyard that Jaboulet has owned since 1834.
- Vineyard: Domaine de Thalabert is described by Jaboulet as the oldest vineyard in the Crozes-Hermitage appellation. The estate’s Syrah vines were planted between 1934 and 1975, giving the 2020 substantial old-vine material. The vineyard lies on the low terraces of the Rhône, where the soils contain abundant rounded stones of glacial origin. These stones absorb heat during the day and gradually release it after sunset, helping Syrah reach full maturity. The vineyard is also home to a seven-hectare biodiversity reserve surrounding the ruins, woodland and meadow of Clos Gounon. The combination of mature vines, warm stony terraces and a long history under one ownership gives Thalabert an unusually distinct identity within the large and geographically varied Crozes-Hermitage appellation.
- Winemaking: The 2020 is 100% Syrah. Jaboulet harvests the vineyard by hand, with individual parcels picked into small 12-kilogram crates before optical and/or manual sorting. The grapes are completely destemmed, followed by traditional vinification and extended maceration with regular pumping over. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation before élevage in French oak. Contemporary information for the 2020 describes gentle extraction and approximately 15% new French oak. The result is a substantial but polished expression of Syrah. Vinous found red and dark berries alongside olive, spice and floral notes, while Wine Advocate emphasized black cherry, crushed stone, ripe fruit, supple tannins and a long, velvety finish.
- Technical Details: 2020 vintage; 100% Syrah; Crozes-Hermitage AOC; Northern Rhône, France; 750ml; 14% alcohol. The vines date from 1934–1975 and are planted on the stony, glacially derived low terraces of the Rhône. The fruit is hand-harvested and completely destemmed before fermentation. The estate describes Thalabert as a rich and balanced expression of Crozes-Hermitage, while independent critics consistently point to the 2020’s combination of dark fruit, savory Northern Rhône character, fine tannins and aging potential. Berry Bros. & Rudd lists a drinking window through 2033, while Jeb Dunnuck believes it can evolve for more than two decades.
- Food Pairing: This is built for savory, full-flavored dishes. Roast lamb, grilled ribeye, duck breast, braised beef or short ribs would all work particularly well with the Syrah’s dark fruit, pepper, olive and earthy character. It would also be excellent with mushroom dishes, lentils with sausage or other rustic preparations where the wine’s savory side can come forward. Jaboulet recommends serving Thalabert at approximately 16–18°C / 61–64°F.
Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 2020
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Reviews:
Wine Advocate: 93
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93
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Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 2020
Sale price$34.00
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