Notes:

This bottle of 2023 Morgon comes from the first bottling run completed in March 2024 (there will be five bottlings until September). Lapierre told me that this is destined for markets in Japan, Canada and a little for the US. The nose reveals dark berry fruit, sous-bois and light Indian ink aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and crisp acidity, a little rustic in a good way with a slightly savory finish. Lovely.  Neal Martin 92

• Producer: Domaine M. & C. Lapierre is one of the benchmark estates of Morgon and one of the producers most closely associated with the revival of traditional, low-intervention Beaujolais. The domaine was transformed by Marcel Lapierre, who took over the family property in 1973 and, through his relationship with researcher and négociant Jules Chauvet, moved toward organic farming, indigenous yeast fermentation, whole-cluster vinification, minimal sulfur, and bottling without fining or filtration. Marcel became part of the group of Morgon growers—alongside Jean Foillard, Jean-Paul Thévenet and Guy Breton—whose work helped reshape the reputation of Beaujolais. Following Marcel’s death in 2010, his children Mathieu and Camille Lapierre continued the estate, with the domaine now carrying their initials. The vineyards are farmed organically, and the family has preserved the cellar methods associated with Marcel while continuing to refine the wines. The regular Morgon remains the cornerstone of the domaine and a reference point for traditionally made Gamay from the appellation.
• Vineyard: The 2023 Morgon is 100% Gamay sourced from a combination of parcels throughout the Morgon cru, incorporating both younger and substantially older vines with an average vine age of approximately 70 years. Morgon lies on the western side of the Beaujolais crus around the village of Villié-Morgon, where the terroir is dominated by decomposed granite and schist, including the weathered volcanic and granitic material locally known as roche pourrie. These relatively poor, well-drained soils naturally limit vigor and are particularly well suited to Gamay, producing wines with greater depth, structure and aging capacity than basic Beaujolais. 2023 produced a generous crop at Lapierre, and the finished Morgon combines the vintage’s ripe fruit with the domaine’s characteristic freshness. Decanter found particularly bright cherry and raspberry fruit in the 2023 together with enough body and structure for aging, while Vinous emphasized crisp acidity and pliant tannins. It is an expressive vintage that shows the immediate fruit associated with Lapierre while retaining the structure that allows Morgon to develop additional savory and earthy complexity with bottle age.
• Winemaking: Lapierre’s Morgon is made according to the methods that have defined the domaine for decades. Whole bunches of Gamay undergo a traditional semi-carbonic maceration, with fermentation occurring naturally through indigenous yeasts rather than cultured yeast additions. Extraction is kept gentle, allowing the intact berries and intracellular fermentation to emphasize Gamay’s fruit and aromatic character without sacrificing the natural structure of Morgon. The wine is subsequently matured in older oak barrels and foudres, avoiding a significant contribution from new oak. One unusual feature of Lapierre is the existence of different bottlings according to sulfur use: the domaine traditionally produces both a version receiving a small sulfur addition at bottling and a sans soufre version bottled without added sulfur. The standard export bottling is generally the lightly sulfured version. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration, maintaining the texture and character developed during fermentation and élevage.
• Technical Details: Morgon AOC; Beaujolais, France; 2023 vintage; 100% Gamay; fruit sourced from multiple parcels throughout Morgon; average vine age approximately 70 years; predominantly decomposed granite and schist-based terroirs; organic farming; hand harvested; whole-cluster semi-carbonic maceration; indigenous yeast fermentation; matured in older oak barrels and foudres; minimal sulfur use, with both sulfured and sans soufre bottlings produced; bottled without fining or filtration; natural cork closure. The 2023 was bottled in several separate runs between approximately March and September 2024, rather than as one single bottling.
• Food Pairing: Roast chicken, duck breast, pork tenderloin, grilled pork chops, steak frites, beef tartare, veal chops, grilled sausages, charcuterie, pâté, mushroom dishes, lentils with sausage, coq au vin, roast turkey, Brie, and Comté. Morgon’s combination of bright acidity, ripe red and dark fruit, moderate tannin and savory character makes it particularly versatile with poultry and pork, while the 2023 has enough structure for beef and richer preparations. It can also be served slightly cool, which emphasizes Gamay’s fruit and freshness.