Notes:

The 2020 Pouilly-Fum from Domaine de Ladoucette is a touch less ripe than some of its vintage counterparts this year, coming in listed at 13.5 percent alcohol, but it is still riper than a typical vintage at this iconic estate. The wine offers up a deep and expressive bouquet of lemon, gooseberry, lime, fresh-cut grass, a beautiful base of flinty soil tones and a topnote of citrus blossoms. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and fairly primary still, with a fine core of fruit, good soil signature, bouncy acids and fine focus and grip on the long, well-balanced and 41 nascently complex finish. In most vintage, this bottling absolutely sings from the moment of its release, but the 2020 really could do with a bit of bottle age to stretch its wings. 2023-2035.

John Gilman 92+