Notes:
A bold, spicy wine that shows dried oregano, burnt blackberries, tar and incense. Despite the initial heady impression, the palate is finely woven and precise, framing grainy tannins. Nevertheless, the finish is quite robust and decadent. Drink from 2021. James Suckling 92
Producer: Rocca di Frassinello is located in Gavorrano in the Tuscan Maremma, in the province of Grosseto. The estate was created as a joint venture between Castellare di Castellina and Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite), combining Castellare’s experience with Sangiovese—referred to by the estate as Sangioveto—with the Bordeaux varieties associated with the Rothschild side of the partnership. The winery itself was designed by architect Renzo Piano, with much of the winemaking facility built below ground to facilitate movement of grapes and wine while maintaining stable cellar conditions. Le Sughere di Frassinello is positioned directly below the estate’s flagship Rocca di Frassinello and combines Sangioveto with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The wine is classified Maremma Toscana DOC and was first produced in 2007. It has also previously appeared in Wine Spectator’s Top 100, establishing a track record beyond the estate’s flagship bottlings.
Vineyard: The vineyards are located around Gavorrano, approximately 90 meters above sea level, in the coastal Maremma. The soils are described by the estate as medium-textured and rich in skeletal material, providing drainage in the region’s warm Mediterranean conditions. Vines are trained using spur-pruned cordon at a density of approximately 5,900 vines per hectare, with yields around 55 quintals per hectare. The 2017 Le Sughere is a blend of 50% Sangioveto, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 25% Merlot. This composition brings together the acidity, red-fruit and savory character of Sangiovese with the darker fruit and tannic structure of Cabernet Sauvignon and the broader, softer texture contributed by Merlot. The finished wine has 14.5% alcohol.
Winemaking: The varieties are harvested and vinified separately, with fermentation taking place in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks followed by completed malolactic fermentation. According to the estate’s technical information, Le Sughere is matured in barriques, approximately 50% of which are new, followed by additional bottle aging before release. The estate currently specifies 18 months of refinement before bottling and nine months in bottle for Le Sughere. The 2017 shows the combination of ripe fruit and oak-derived complexity expected from this élevage, with blackberry, black currant, cherry, tobacco, licorice, herbs, eucalyptus, spice and toasty oak appearing across producer and critic descriptions. Structurally, it is a substantial Maremma red with firm tannins, concentrated fruit and enough acidity to maintain definition.
Food Pairing: Le Sughere’s combination of ripe fruit, firm tannin and savory character works particularly well with grilled steak, roast beef, beef tenderloin, lamb chops, wild boar, venison, hare, wild duck, grilled sausages, meat ragù, roasted pork, mushroom dishes, aged Pecorino, and Parmigiano Reggiano. The estate particularly recommends flavorful pasta and rice dishes along with game meats such as deer, wild boar and hare.
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