Notes:

The 2009 Moulin Vent les Trois Roches from Pierre-Marie Chermette is asuperb example of the vintage, but as it has seen a bit of new wood, it really will need abit of time in the cellar to fully integrate its wood component and blossom a bit from behind its substantive structural elements. The bouquet is deep, pure and very beautiful,as it jumps from the glass in a refined blend of cassis, black cherries, graphite, currantleaf, a great base of soil tones, espresso, smoke and a deft framing of cedary wood. Onthe palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure, with fine focus and balance, firm,ripe tannins and outstanding length and grip on the still very young and currently quiteclosed finish. While there is absolutely no issue here with the ultimate balance of thiswine, the wood currently pinches the wine just a touch on the backend and clearlysuggests that some cellaring will be required. 2012-2035.View from the Cellar: 93+.

The Vissoux 2009 Moulin-a-Vent Les Trois Roches named for the Rochegres, La Rochelle, and Roche Noire sites south of Chenas smells of fresh dark cherry and purple plum along with charred wood (though not necessarily from barrel). Rather restrained and laid-back on the palate, it nonetheless clings with authority, offering smoky, crushed stone, and saline mineral elements in a dynamic interchange with its concentrated fruit. This is likely to blossom beautifully over the next couple of years and be worth following for 5-7. Wine Advocate: 91.