90-92 WA

Notes:

The finest Malartic Lagraviere yet produced, the dense ruby/purple-colored 2000 displays abundant power, concentration, extract, glycerin, and length. This expansive, juicy, layered, full-bodied effort should prove long-lived. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2020. This property has made an astonishing leap in quality under the ownership of Monsieur and Madame Alfred-Alexandre Bonnie. Visitors to Bordeaux are well-advised to schedule a visit here, if only to see the space age technology in the cuverie. - Robert Parker 90-92

Producer: Château Malartic-Lagravière is one of the historic Crus Classés de Graves and one of only six Graves estates classified for both its red and white wines. The modern chapter of the property began in 1997, when Belgian couple Alfred-Alexandre and Michèle Bonnie purchased the château from Laurent-Perrier. They immediately launched a major redevelopment of both vineyard and winery, including replanting, vineyard expansion and construction of a new cellar. Designed by architect Bernard Mazières, the new winery received its first harvest in 1998 and was notable for its gravity-flow design, allowing grapes and must to move through the cellar with minimal pumping. The 2000 was therefore produced during an important early period of the Bonnie family’s ownership, after the new winery was operational and while their broader transformation of the estate was underway. Michel Rolland and Athanase Fakorellis consulted on the winemaking.
Vineyard: Malartic-Lagravière is situated on an elevated gravel ridge in Léognan, one of the defining terroirs of Pessac-Léognan. The soils combine gravel with sand and clay, with the gravel layer ranging from roughly 50 centimeters to more than three meters in depth. These free-draining surface soils sit above clay, which provides an important water reserve during dry periods. This combination is particularly favorable for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, providing drainage, warmth and a steady supply of water as the grapes mature. 2000 was an excellent Bordeaux vintage, particularly after a wet spring gave way to much drier conditions. August and September were notably dry, and the favorable end to the growing season allowed the estate to harvest ripe fruit with good concentration and mature tannins.
Winemaking: The 2000 blend is 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. Vinification took place in the estate’s recently completed gravity-flow winery, using temperature-controlled stainless-steel and wooden vats. Fermentation and maceration extended for approximately three to five weeks, with temperatures maintained around 28–30°C. The wine was then matured for 17 months in French oak barrels, 80% new. The relatively high proportion of new oak and extended élevage were supported by the concentration of the 2000 vintage, while the blend’s combination of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon provided both breadth and structure. The 2000 is particularly interesting as an early example of the style emerging after the Bonnie family’s extensive investment in Malartic-Lagravière.
Technical Details: Pessac-Léognan AOC; Cru Classé de Graves; 750ml. The blend is 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. Vinification lasted approximately three to five weeks in temperature-controlled stainless-steel and wooden vats, followed by 17 months of barrel aging with 80% new oak. The wine was produced in the gravity-flow winery completed for the 1998 harvest, an innovative design at the time that allowed the estate to reduce mechanical handling during vinification.
Food Pairing: With more than 25 years of bottle age, the 2000 is well suited to roast lamb, beef tenderloin, duck, venison or veal with mushrooms. The earthy and smoky character that develops in mature Pessac-Léognan also makes porcini, morels and truffles particularly natural accompaniments. A simple roast chicken with mushrooms would work equally well if a lighter pairing is preferred. Stand the bottle upright before opening and decant carefully for sediment, adjusting additional aeration according to the condition of the individual bottle.