99 WA

Notes:

An absolutely awesome Troplong-Mondot that flirts with perfection, this dense purple-colored wine has a thrilling bouquet of creme de cassis, espresso roast, licorice, white flowers, vanilla, and blackberries. Full-bodied, gorgeously concentrated, yet light on its feet, this extravagantly rich, luxuriously fruited wine is just beginning to reach its plateau of maturity. A profound tour de force in winemaking! - Robert Parker 99

Producer: Château Troplong Mondot occupies one of the most distinctive positions in Saint-Émilion, sitting high on the Mondot hill above the village. The property’s history stretches back to the 18th century, when the land formed part of a larger estate that also included vineyards associated with what became Château Pavie. The Troplong name arrived in the 19th century, while the Valette family acquired the property in the 20th century. A particularly important period began in 1980, when Christine Valette took control of the estate. Her husband, Xavier Pariente, joined her in 1990, the same year this wine was produced. The château was considerably less famous then than it is today, but the 1990 became one of the wines that established the modern reputation of Troplong Mondot. The estate was subsequently promoted to Premier Grand Cru Classé B in the 2006 Saint-Émilion classification.
Vineyard: Troplong Mondot historically comprised approximately 33 hectares, unusually large for an important Saint-Émilion estate. Its vineyards occupy some of the highest ground in the appellation, rising to roughly 100 meters and benefiting from a cooler environment than many lower-lying sites. The soils combine limestone and clay with flint and stones, giving Merlot the ability to achieve considerable ripeness while retaining the structural foundation necessary for long aging. Around the period of the 1990 vintage, Merlot already dominated the vineyard, with Cabernet varieties playing supporting roles. The estate traditionally harvested relatively late, taking advantage of its elevated, cooler terroir to allow the grapes a long period of maturation. The warm 1990 season was especially well suited to this approach: significant heat in late August and early September brought the large crop to full ripeness and produced deeply concentrated fruit.
Winemaking: The 1990 represents an important moment in the château’s evolution. That year eight additional temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats were installed, giving the estate greater ability to vinify individual parcels separately. Christine Valette was directing the property, with Xavier Pariente joining her that same year, and consultant Michel Rolland was involved with the estate during this period. The resulting 1990 became known for exceptional concentration and power, with ripe Merlot at its core. More than three decades later, it remains a particularly interesting snapshot of Troplong Mondot at the beginning of its modern rise. Despite its scale and richness, the bottle carries a stated alcohol level of just 13.5%, notably moderate by the standards of many later, riper Saint-Émilions.
Technical Details: Red Bordeaux from Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France; 750ml. Merlot was the dominant variety in Troplong Mondot’s vineyards, supported principally by Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The bottle is labeled 13.5% alcohol. One important historical distinction is worth making: although Troplong Mondot is now widely associated with Premier Grand Cru Classé status, the château had not yet received that promotion when the 1990 was produced; it was elevated to Premier Grand Cru Classé B in 2006. The 1990 itself has become one of the estate’s benchmark mature vintages, combining the natural power of the Mondot plateau with the exceptional ripeness of the 1990 Bordeaux growing season.
Food Pairing: At this age, the bottle deserves food that complements mature Bordeaux without overwhelming it. Roast lamb, beef tenderloin, duck breast, venison or simply prepared ribeye are natural choices. Earthier dishes work particularly well with mature Saint-Émilion: roast chicken with mushrooms, porcini risotto or veal with morels can pick up the wine’s developed savory character. Aged Comté or another firm, nutty cheese is an excellent option at the end of the meal. With a wine more than 35 years old, careful service is worthwhile—stand the bottle upright beforehand and decant primarily for sediment, adjusting air exposure according to the condition of the individual bottle.