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Article: Domaine Borgeot Santenay Clos de la Comme Dessus

Domaine Borgeot

Domaine Borgeot Santenay Clos de la Comme Dessus

Not since the 2020 vintage have I had any stock of Domaine Borgeot Santenay Clos de la Comme Dessus, so it’s a real delight to present today’s offer.


Over the years, I’ve brought you several outstanding wines from this domaine — always exceptionally priced and always punching well above their weight. But Clos de la Comme Dessus is the undisputed champion in the lineup. It was the first wine the importer brought to me back in 2017. In those days, I could “back up the truck” — meaning, I could actually get a truckload! Word has clearly gotten out. Last time the importer was here, he didn’t even bring it to taste because new rules — one just buys whatever one can get. I almost think he hoped I wouldn’t notice it on the list, because when I said I wanted it all, he started to stutter!


Fortunately, I’m very persuasive.


If you buy white Burgundy from me, you know the style I love: citrus-leaning (lemon and lime), with great minerality, searing acidity, and a lip-smacking finish that reverberates long after you swallow. The wine is an absolute showstopper — and I kid you not, it would give wines at twice the price a serious run for their money.


Santenay is best known for its reds, but this small Clos, located on the Chassagne border, sits on a band of limestone at the perfect elevation. It catches the cool evening breeze from the nearby combe, allowing the fruit to ripen slowly and develop incredible depth and minerality.


The 2023 vintage is already showing beautifully — easily accessible now, yet with enough stuffing and potential that three to five years in the cellar will only add more depth and dimension. I only wish I had a truckload of this stuff.


Think of it as a mini-Chassagne in style — same pedigree of terroir, but at a fraction of the price.

 

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