Clos des Rocs Pouilly-Loche "Clos des Rocs" Monopole 2022
Today I’m happy to have back in stock a Vins Rare favorite, Domaine Clos des Rocs Pouilly-Loché “Clos des Rocs.” This is the domaine’s flagship wine, sourced from a three-hectare vineyard located just beside the estate.
I spent a cold January afternoon a few years ago with proprietor Olivier Giroux, a visit that has stayed with me ever since. We began with a walk through the vineyards in Loché. Even in the quiet of winter, the place had a certain energy. At one point Olivier pointed out a fracture in the slope where the earth had split open, exposing a seam of pale limestone beneath the surface. It was one of those moments that reminds you how closely these wines are tied to the land. Seeing that bedrock laid bare made it easy to understand the tension and mineral drive that show up in the glass.
Back at the cellar, Olivier had assembled an extraordinary lineup. Nearly every vintage he had produced from Clos des Rocs over the domaine’s almost twenty-year history was open and ready to taste. Bottle after bottle told the story of the vineyard and of Olivier’s steady refinement as a vigneron. As we worked through the wines, he explained that they were in the process of seeking Premier Cru classification for several vineyards in Loché. The reason so many wines were open that day was because the committee had visited the day before and wanted to evaluate how the wines aged over time. Tasting them side by side made a compelling argument. The older bottles carried themselves with the kind of depth, balance, and quiet authority you hope to see in wines from serious terroir.
I had been impressed with these wines from the very first time I tasted them, but having the opportunity to taste through nearly the entire history of the domaine was something special. It reinforced what I already knew: these are serious wines. They have the structure, precision, and aging capacity that rival some of Burgundy’s more celebrated appellations.
About six months after my visit, the news became official. Starting with the 2024 vintage, Clos des Rocs will be elevated to Premier Cru status. I’m hoping we don’t see prices soar the way they did in neighboring Pouilly-Fuissé a few years ago when several of its vineyards were elevated. At $42, this represents one of the finest buys in Chardonnay anywhere in the world. Pick up a few more than you normally would. You’ll be glad you did.
