Article: Chateau Yquem
Chateau Yquem
I’m pleased to offer today a selection of some of the finest Yquem’s of the last 40 years. All purchased on release and stored professionally. All are well on their way to that perfect caramel color as represented in the photo..
Would there be Sauterns if there was no Chateau Yquem? It is regarded as one of the truly great wine estates anywhere in the world. Chateau Yquem has been a favorite of royalty and dignitaries for the past 500 years. Its unique winemaking process uses grapes affected by Botrytis (nobel rot), a fungal disease, which under specific weather conditions, dehydrates the grapes, concentrating their sugars and results in an intensely sweet, complex, and long-lasting wine.
Chateau Yquem requires multiple pass throughs the vineyard for hand harvesting, resulting in extremely low yields. but at the same time offers extraordinary richness, balance and longevity.
It takes 25+ years before the wine really starts to take on the complexity and the nuance that makes it so highly regarded. It is when the color starts to take on that caramel brownish hue that makes these wines so exciting.
Compared with the flamboyant aromatics of the 1997, Yquem's 1996 plays it closer to the vest, although there is a lot going on. Light gold with a tight but promising nose of roasted hazelnuts intermixed with creme brulee, vanilla beans, honey, orange marmalade, and peaches, this medium to full-bodied offering reveals loads of power in its restrained, measured personality. There is admirable acidity, weight, texture, and purity in this impeccably made Yquem. However, patience will be a virtue. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2060.
- Robert Parker, 95
Millionaires will have considerable fun comparing the evolution of the 1988 d'Yquem with the 1986. Both are super-rich, honeyed, botrytised wines. The 1988 exhibits a deeper color, as well as a more evolved, richer, and more complex bouquet. Aromas of melted butter, honeyed fruits, spicy nuts, and toasty new oak explode upward from the glass. The 1988 d'Yquem displays more richness and unctuosity than any young d'Yquem I have tasted. It should have 40-60 years of positive evolution, although one suspects that much of the production will be consumed within the next 4-5 years. If my instincts are correct, this is the most profound d'Yquem since the legendary 1959. It may not prove as timeless as the 1975, but I believe it to be even more concentrated. Anticipated maturity: 1998-2050.
- Robert Parker, 99
1990: An extraordinary effort, Yquem's 1990 is a rich and fabulously superb, sweet wine. This wine also possesses lots of elegance and finesse. The wine's medium gold color is accompanied by an exceptionally sweet nose of honeyed tropical fruits, peaches, coconut, and apricots. High quality, subtle toasty oak is well-integrated. The wine is massive on the palate, with layers of intensely ripe botrytis-tinged, exceptionally sweet fruit. Surprisingly well-integrated acidity, and a seamless, full-bodied power and richness have created a wine of remarkable harmony and purity. Certainly it is one of the richest Yquems I have ever tasted, with 50-100 years of potential longevity. An awesome Yquem! Anticipated maturity: 2003-2050+.
- Robert Parker, 99
Medium gold in color, the 1999 d'Yquem has shed its puppy fat and transformed into compelling cinnamon toast, creme caramel and cashew notions with emerging notes of beurre blanc, honeycomb, ginger snaps and praline over a core of peach preserves and apple pie. The palate is softly spoken with a refreshing backbone carrying loads of delicate savory and stone fruit preserves nuances to a long, beautifully restrained finish. At the 20-year mark, this wine is in the midst of its ideal drinking window, and while I hasten to add that there is no rush to drink up, there’s also no need to delay your gratification either. The alcohol this vintage is 13.8%, while the residual sugar is 128 grams per liter, and the total acidity is 4.5 grams per liter of H2SO4.
- Wine Advocate, 92
The average June temperature for 2003 was the warmest ever recorded at Yquem since they installed their first weather station in 1896. And things were only just starting to heat up. This notoriously hot vintage nonetheless produced some very pleasant Bordeaux surprises, Yquem being one. As readers can guess, obtaining the necessary sugar levels was not the problem this year. If it was a question of sugar alone, berries could well have been harvested in August. But come September, the wait was on for the botrytis. Fortunately, a little rain beginning on the 5th of September kick-started proceedings, and with the help of continued warm temperatures, the noble rot took off like a rocket! After this, frenetic harvesting and strict selection ensued. Harvest was over in a record nine days, resulting in a super rich, concentrated and full botrytized expression that beautifully does justice to both the vintage and to Yquem.
- Wine Advocate, 96
Served from an ex-chateau bottle. This replicated the performance in the Southwold blind tasting. The 2004 Chateau dYquems bouquet is generous but not as complex as either the 2005 or indeed the 2006. The oak a little pronounced considering the age in bottle, but it does not leap at you shouting Im Yquem! The palate has a viscous tangerine and orange peel opening with fine acidity. There is good weight in the mouth, with touches of spice and cardamom. It finishes just a little abruptly for a Yquem, a pretty note without requisite sustain. Drink now-2035. Tasted March 2014.
- Wine Advocate, 92
