
2023 Bitouzet Prieur
In today’s Burgundy world, it's easy to spend a lot of money, open the wine and then spend commensurate psychic energy convincing yourself it was worth it. That psychic cost is like a tariff on bad, expensive wine. Bringing my customers the opposite experience is why I’m always on the lookout for wines that drink above their price point. A good number of those have come from the Cote de Beaune, and in particular Volnay.
I’ve been writing about Bitouzet Prieur for a number of years now. My entire perception of the domaine changed after a visit in 2018, when I saw first hand one of the most impressive modern winemaking facilities… ever. The epitome of a dream winery!
This new facility has allowed Francois the space to work, not only more efficiently, but also more precisely. This has completely transformed the style of the wines being produced today. What was once known for old school, rustic wines is now turning out wines with polish and class, expressing a sleeker, modern feel. At the same time, they retain the structure and tannin that you get from old vine Volnay vineyards.
Every producer has that one wine in the lineup that stands out; for me it’s the Clos de Chenes. It’s not hard to understand why. Clos de Chenes is the best vineyard in Volany. It sits at the top of the slope on the Meursault side of the village facing east. Its thinner soils are rich in limestone but also contain a significant amount of iron rich clay, which is where the wine gets its depth and structure.
I’ve had numerous examples of this wine over the years and it checks all the boxes. It's powerful with plenty of depth and concentration, great mouth feel, perfectly balanced, with saliva inducing length that makes you crave another sip. This is a wine I'm looking to buy every year, but in years past I’ve sold this wine for around $100. This year, I bought it very early and am able to offer it for $79, which is an absolutely incredible price! Do yourself a favor and grab some of this one - you will be glad you did!

Pretty, fresh and ripe aromas of purple fruit, violet and plenty of spice nuances lead to intense if not as concentrated medium weight flavors that flash impressive power on the very firm, youthfully austere and built-to-age finale. Like several wines in the range, this is definitely built to repay extended cellaring.Â
- Burghound, 90-92
Another intense purple colour. The bouquet has been knocked back a bit by a recent sulphur addition. No doubting the balanced intensity of the fruit, a correct degree of ripeness, the finish tightened up by the recent racking and treatments, but a wealth of classy dark berry fruit stretching out into a long finish. Needs more elevage to finish getting where it is going. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Oct 2024.Â
- Jasper Morris, 91-93
The 2023 Volnay Clos des ChĂŞnes ler Cru is usually the standout amongst Bitouzet-Prieur's Premier Crus, and this is no different. Quite complex on the nose, it delivers a mĂ©lange of red and black fruit, iodine and incense, slightly richer than the 2022 yet still very well focused. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins and fine grip. Slightly bitter and sapid, it attenuates only slightly on the finish. Patience will be required.Â
- Vinous / Neal Martin, 91-93