Article: Buisson 2021
Buisson 2021
Sometimes the best values in Burgundy are hiding behind the simplest labels.
Today's offer comes from a new producer for us, Domaine Buisson-Battault located in Meursault. I'm always curious to taste new wines, and these did not disappoint. Our vendor brought an array of wines to taste, and two were absolute showstoppers: a Meursault 1er Cru Porusots 2022 and a knockout Bourgogne Côte d'Or 2021.
Porusots may not be as well known as some of the other Meursault 1er Crus, but its prime location, sandwiched between Genevrières and Bouchères, puts it smack in the center of Meursaults best vineyards. The vineyard's name is derived from the old Burgundian term "Porroux," meaning a stony, rocky place — and having tasted the wine, that's exactly the quality I was drawn to. The nose offers a touch of petrol and white flower, giving the impression of a sunny vintage. On the palate is where this one shows its chiseled, mineral-driven quality. This is a dense wine with plenty of that jaw-aching intensity that I love about great white Burgundy. At a fraction of what great Meursault sells for these days, this was an easy "I'll take it all!" Sadly, only two cases were available. One not to Miss!
The second wine I couldn't say no to was the Bourgogne Côte d'Or 2021. Having a couple of extra years on it as a 2021 puts this wine in the perfect drinking window — it's had a chance to flesh out a touch while still holding onto the freshness and energy I'm always looking for from these wines. The wine is made from two parcels in Meursault, Les Clous Perrons and Les Magnys, with some vines dating back to 1951. It's easy to understand why this Bourgogne has just a little something extra: it's all Meursault fruit.
I do like finding these unheard of producers. Years of blind tasting has taught me to evaluate what is in the bottle and not what is on the label. If Meursault is something you love as much as I do, these are two textbook examples that deserve your full attention.
Vineyard: Although carrying the regional Bourgogne appellation, this Chardonnay comes from vineyards within Meursault itself. The domaine identifies the parcels as Les Clous Perrons and Les Magnys, totaling approximately 0.78 hectare. The soils are clay-limestone, and the individual plantings date from 1951, 1974, 1996 and 2001, giving the cuvée a meaningful component of mature-vine fruit. Its origin within Meursault is particularly noteworthy for a Bourgogne-level Chardonnay and places the vineyards within one of the Côte de Beaune’s most important Chardonnay-producing communes.
Vineyard: Les Porusots is one of Meursault's most renowned Premier Cru vineyards, located on the southern edge of the village adjacent to Puligny-Montrachet. Buisson-Battault's parcel lies in Porusot-Dessus, where shallow limestone soils and excellent drainage produce wines known for their mineral tension, concentration, and longevity. The average vine age is approximately 36 years.
