2023 Samuel Billaud
Every great domaine has an origin story. For Samuel Billaud, it was born from frustration, a family fallout, and a brilliantly executed exit.
For years, Samuel was the hands-on force at the historic Domaine Billaud-Simon, the estate his family had run for generations. But as he grew increasingly frustrated with the absentee owners in his own family, things came to a head. In 2014, the powerhouse négociant Faiveley came knocking with a blank check, and the family sold.
But Samuel held a trump card: he had been so intimately involved in the day-to-day operations, he knew exactly which were the best parcels. During the transition, he played his hand perfectly, negotiating to retain 4 hectares of the estate’s crown jewels—including prime sites in Montée de Tonnerre, Mont de Milieu, and Séchets.
From the ashes of the old family domaine, a new legend was born: Domaine Samuel Billaud.
The wines were electric from day one. I remember begging the importer for a few cases of his first vintage of Montée de Tonnerre, only to be told, “I can give you one case. The rest is being poured by the glass at Eleven Madison Park.” I was just happy to get any, and I’ve been buying the wines every vintage since.
I make it a point to visit Samuel whenever I’m in Chablis. He’s a quiet guy, a man of few words, but that’s okay… because the wines speak for themselves. And speak they do.
These are classically styled, mineral-driven Chablis with remarkable freshness and tension—always with that unmistakable whisper of sea breeze. From top to bottom, the 2023 lineup is stunning. The Chablis "Les Grands Terroirs" (sourced from plots above the Grand Cru Les Clos) puts many Premier Crus to shame. The star of the cellar, Montée de Tonnerre, comes from a parcel right next to none other than François Raveneau. It is, without question, one of the finest expressions of Chablis being produced today.
This is a can’t-miss estate. This is an early offer for the 2023 vintage, representing some of the most aggressive pricing you'll find. The wines arrive in November.
Secure some today—you’ll be glad you did.
Moderate reduction pushes the underlying fruit to the background today. On the palate there is excellent volume to the vibrant and equally stony medium weight flavors that also conclude in a chiseled, bone-dry and sneaky long finale. This is a potentially outstanding villages and worth your interest.Â
- Burghound 89-92 Outstanding Top Value
The 2023 Chablis Mont de Milieu ler Cru underwent partial wood aging and was bottled in May 2025. This sports a clever, subtle reduction on the nose that releases energy into the aromatics. The palate is well defined with gentle grip and more depth than the Les Fourneaux. This is a little flinty in style, with quite the persistent finish. The 2023 has great potential.
-Vinous Media 92Â
This is aromatically at once markedly ripe yet super-fresh with its array of white peach, pear and lemon-lime confit that also reflects just enough Chablis character to remind you where this is from. There is once again fine mid-palate density to the solidly powerful mineral-driven flavors that display fine length on the balanced finale that is not especially dry or austere. This harmonious and already nicely complex effort should easily repay up to a decade of keeping. Â
- Burghound, 91-93 Sweet Spot Outstanding!
The 2023 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre ler Cru has a vivacious bouquet that's more complex than the Montmains. It's delineated and focused with wonderful mineralité, scents of lime flower, citrus peel and orange blossom. The palate is very well balanced with a quicksilver line of acidity, fine depth and a harmonious, saline finish. The 2023 is beautiful.
-Vinous Media, 93Â
An elegant, pure and airy nose possesses more obvious Chablis character with its wet stone, shellfish, brine and iodine-suffused nose. There is more refinement, if less volume and power, to the beautifully textured middle weight flavors that conclude in a sneaky long, balanced and altogether classy finale. Â
- Burghound, 91-93 Sweet Spot Outstanding!Â
