2023 Jean Marc Pillot
Wines like Jean Marc Pillot’s constitute the backbone of Vins Rare and are one of the reasons I got into, and remain in the wine business. Their core Chassagne Montrachet holdings offer what I always look for in white burgundy; wines displaying a citrus leaning nose, along with chiseled minerality and cut, offering a focused finish that is tight and compact. These are wines that are always light on their feet and punch well above their weight.
Today, I am focusing on my favorite, the Domain’s vineyards in Chassagne Montrachet. Vine age here is anywhere from 25-50 years and are some of the best 1er cru vineyards of Chassagne Montrachet. As much wine as they produce, both as a retailer and consumer, I never seem to get my hands on enough. They’re always a sell-out.
The lineup of 2023’s comes with my highest recommendation. Don’t Miss the two outstanding Bourgogne - among the best quality at this level - in both colors!
STORY
With his impressive array of holdings throughout Chassagne-Montrachet, complemented by parcels in Puligny-Montrachet, Santenay, Montagny, and Rully, Jean-Marc Pillot is among the most important growers producing compelling white and red Burgundy. For two decades we have watched Jean-Marc - a fourth-generation vigneron - find his way and master his craft, and today his generous, electrifying renderings of these great terroirs tend to sell out the moment they are released. In person, Jean-Marc is lively and warm; one can sense his tireless work ethic even in the nimble and speedy way in which he navigates his cellar. As is so often the case, his wines mirror his personality: exuberant, expressive, and bristling with energy. Jean-Marc works his domaine’s exceedingly old vines - averaging over 50 years but reaching as high as 110 - without the use of chemicals, and his fermentations always begin naturally. His use of oak is thoughtful and measured, never formulaic and always tailored to each wine in each vintage. He has an uncanny knack for employing new wood as a skilled chef employs salt: barely enough to notice, and just enough to enhance balance.
Jean Marc has been grooming his son Antonin to be more and more involved with the day to day operation of the winery. They produce a fair bit of wine with almost 20 hectares of vineyards, but also with fruit they get in a variety of different arrangements.
Don’t Miss!
Pale primrose. Energy on the nose looking for finesse. A little more flesh on the palate, crunchy apples, good tension throughout and a fine long finish. This grows on me. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 91-94
Pale lemon and lime. I am immediately struck by a sense of magical balance on the nose, nothing too overtly opulent but very nicely done. White apple and pear fruit with a little citrus rinse, impressive linear intensity, very long. Well made. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 93-95
An attractive mid lemon colour. Some depth to the fruit. Clean, clear cut fresh apple at the start, certainly entirely white fruit, nothing too sunny, yet with extra intensity further back, and a return of the stones. Finishes really well Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 92-94
