2023 Jean Marc et Hughes Pavelot
Back in the 90’s, the good ol’ days, I was introduced to Domaine Jean Marc et Hughes Pavelot and have been intently watching their progress over the years. It's been a few years since I’ve been to Savigny les Beaune, tasting from cask, but have enjoyed countless bottles and can confidently say, the wines have never been better!
The domaine is blessed with some enviable holdings in Savigny's best terroirs, and the wines produced offer amazing quality at an extremely fair price. When I was starting my Burgundy journey, parsimoniously spending $30 for a bottle of wine was a big decision! More often than not, I found myself reaching for Domaine Pavelot when willing to part with my pennies! At the time, I felt the wines offered more depth and structure compared with wines priced similarly. Today, nothing has changed in that regard. I feel the same.
Climate change has benefited these wines, allowing them to fully ripen which has resulted in a display of more fruit than soil , balanced and softened by some of the characteristic rustic edge that we see from Savigny. They are broad and masculine in style.
The Dominiode has long been the top wine for me. It's always the most backward, meaning patience is key with this cuvee and if you can find a way to keep your hands off, this is a wine that really rewards at that 7-10 year range. I think in the last several years the Lavieres and the Gravains have taken a step or two forward and give the Dominode a run for the top spot. My experience is that they both are a touch more approachable in their youth and offer a slightly earlier drinking window than their big brother.
You honestly can’t go wrong with any of the wines!
A powerful purple with a deep black centre. There appears to be a strict intensity to the Gravains. A bit of plum, plenty of dark red berries, some tannins once again, a more compact wine than the Lavières but possibly a point more intense as well. 14% helps to explain this. Drink from 2029-2035. Tasted Dec 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 90-93
The 2023 Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Gravins ler Cru, 22% whole cluster, is much more reticent on the nose compared to the Les Lavières. The palate is medium-bodied with a pleasant orange rind note infusing the black fruit on the entry. With fine structure and good grip, this feels precise and focused on the finish that has just the right amount of salinity. This is excellent.
- Neal Martin/Vinous, 91-93
A fine even purple. Ripe raspberry fruit, nicely harnessed, with the slightly firm tannins from this vineyard which has a little more clay below the surface. It is in no way heavy though, just bears a more solid frame which will support longer ageing. Drink from 2029-2035. Tasted Dec 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 90-92
The 2023 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières ler Cru has impressive delineation with judicious use of 23% whole bunch. Touches of blackberry, red fruit, wild hedgerow and black pepper emerge with time. The palate is well balanced and delicately spiced with wonderful poise, gentle grip and a little more depth and backbone on the finish. This is classy. Bon vin.
- Neal Martin / Vinous Media, 92-94
A defiant black purple, this wine is so intense in all compartments. Then surprisingly racy on the palate just when I was expecting an overload of black fruit. In fact, this is much redder in profile, fresh cherry and raspberry, underpinned by a crystalline limestone notion. Very persistent. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Dec 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 91-94 | 5 Star
The 2023 Savigny-lès-Beaune La Dominode ler Cru showed a small reduction on the nose: blackberry, briar and light white pepper scents unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. It's perhaps the most peppery of the Savigny cuvées, although the Gravins has more precision on the finish.
- Neal Martin / Vinous, 90-92
