Article: 2023 Donnhoff
2023 Donnhoff
Today I popped the Hermannshohle Spatlese: this wine has amazing complexity, a hint of sweetness on the palate but I find it incredibly straight with amazing energy and a finish that leaves you craving another sip. I think Vinous Media/Anne Krebihel’s 97 point review couldn’t be more spot on - I’m going to take the rest of this bottle to the Thai restaurant next door, as it will provide the perfect pairing to a spicy Tom kha gai!Â
Every time I enjoy any wine from Donnhoff, I’m amazed at how they are so compelling and thought provoking. I’ve got dedicated buyers for this, but for those of you who haven’t tried it yet, broaden your horizons!
STORY
Cornelius Donnhoff took over his family’s estate in 1971 and since that time has propelled the domaine into the stratosphere. It is arguably one of the most recognized and respected Riesling producers in the world. Up and down the entire range, year in and year out, each and every wine offers a reference point into what one should expect from Riesling produced in Germany.
With 50+ years experience, Cornelius recognized early on that the fruit set of 2023 looked like it might result in a larger harvest than normal. He began aggressively dropping fruit and thinning the canopy in June. The weather turned cool and wet in July and for most of August, however with his early season instincts the thinner canopy relieved some of the disease pressure and the cover crop left between the rows helped to reduce the moisture in the soil, which ultimately helped to dry out the grapes. As the clouds lifted and the sun came out at the end of August, it allowed the grapes to reach maturity with no botrytis.Â
There is no mystery why Donhoff is the best!
Oberhäuser Leistenberg Kabinett is from a south-east-facing site of shale, getting the morning sun; this is never affected by botrytis and is shaded in the afternoon, so a late-harvest is possible because bo rved. The nose combines lemon zest, stone and herbal tisane. The palate add just a little sweetness, giving the charm to the citric verve, but all remains light, tender, bright and so deceptively easy. What a tease, what elegance, what lemon resonance!
-Â Vinous Media, 94
The 2023 Riesling Norheimer Kirschheck Spätlese benefits from cool nights. Dönnhoff emphasizes that this has no botrytis. A touch of tangerine appears on the nose. The palate brings immense charm to the veil-like lightness. This is all delicacy and elegance, scented with tangerine. It's beautifully restrained and so fresh. Around 50.60 g/L of sweetness against thrilling acid means this is still only medium sweet. The 2023 is exquisite, pure and taut. (Medium)Â
-Â Vinous Media, 94
The 2023 Riesling Oberhäuser BrĂĽcke Spätlese is from a geologically complex site that has loess, loam, shale, weathered sandstone and volcanic formations, the moderating influence of the river also means that botrytis Auslese are harvested together but selected in the vineyard. Golden and gently botrytised fruit goes into Spätlese. This charms with a touch of crushed blackcurrant foliage and ripest, juiciest Reine Claude plum, all edger tout, vividly concentrated, yet no heaviness, just light-footed, dancing, playful and oh so balanced.Â
- Vinous Media, 96
The 2023 Riesling Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Spätlese, grown on shale, has equal notions of moss and lemon. More air makes this smell simply of wet stone. The palate carries gentle sweetness but is absolutely precise and slender. Citrus frames everything with the clearest precision. Everything is serene, zesty, tender, yet so very serious. The 2023 is glorious in its lightness and disarming in its elegance.Â
-Â Vinous Media, 97
The 2023 Riesling Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Grosses Gewächs, from a south-facing shale site with just a few calcareous veins, is golden in color. The vines were planted in 1949, and they now bring just small yields of tiny berries with a different pulp/skin ratio. A gorgeous lift tells of citrus zest, with an ethereal touch of crushed citrus leaf and spicier herb. The palate is crystalline. It's a clear-cut, taut, pure vision of stone and citrus. This is a pure, poised, precise and concentrated wine. Time and again, it is astonishing that so much flavor, stone and energy can be captured in a wine of such taut proportions at 12.5% alcohol. What an experience! There is no reliance on power, volume or fat, just slenderness, elegance and essence. (Bone-dry)
-Â Vinous Media, 96-98
