2022 Sylvain Pataille
I’m excited to announce the arrival of Sylvain Pataille’s 2022 vintage to our warehouse! Since stepping foot in his cellar back in 2008, I have bought every vintage and remained an ardent fan. Even back then, he was certified organic and was incorporating biodynamic philosophies, with official certification coming a few years later.
I remember hearing him answer questions about his techniques and was amazed at the detailed answers he provided. There was no doubt he was in tune with his vines and great things were already happening for him. Fast forward 15 years and Sylvain is one of the most renowned authorities on biodynamic farming and probably one of the most respected vignerons in Burgundy. I won’t say he single handedly put Marsannay on the map, but he is one of the reasons a number of the Marsannay vineyards are in the conversation for elevation to 1er cru status.
In the cellar, Sylvain focuses on minimal intervention to highlight the natural expression of his terroirs. He utilizes indigenous yeasts for fermentation, employs whole-cluster fermentation for added complexity. Aging is done with a mix of new and old barrels, typically ranging from 12 to 18 months, though some wines may age longer based on their needs
Patialle’s 2022’s arrived here a couple of weeks ago - I finally got a chance to try a bottle of the Marsannay La Montagne. I would describe this as having the perfect color, dark purple but still transparent. The sulfur, which he uses sparingly at bottling, was noticeable when I pulled the cork, quickly dissipating to reveal a deliciously stemy complexity that only the whole cluster can provide, absolutely gorgeous! Further examination reveals a nose offering black berry and plum scents with a touch of spice all working in harmony together. The palate is medium bodied, balanced, with just the right amount of acidity to offer a little crunch on the finish, which tells me this one really deserves another year or even two to really see its full potential.
Considering what has happened to Burgundy prices, it's nice to see wines of this quality not costing over $100. I can see why Burghound lists a number of these as top values - I couldn’t agree more! Sylvain Patiaille’s 2022’s deserve your full attention!
Vins Rare Note: I always find this wine offers above average bang for the buck - especially in the riper vintages. This is worth your attention!
Just bottled. Mid crimson. An energetic pure pinot fruit nose, not ethereal but not massive, just about the fruit. The finish is made a little more severe by the recent bottling but this is a hugely satisfying crunchy fruit. Persistent for this level. Lovely. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted: November 2023.
- Jasper Morris, 89
Vins Rare Note: Chardonnay Rose is a genetic mutation of the Chardonnay grape specific to the village of Marsannay. Sylvain Pataille first noticed the mutation in 2002, when he acquired his Blangeys parcel, and found some surprisingly pink grapes at harvest. From 2002 until 2005, his Marsannay Blanc was 100% Chardonnay Rose from Blangeys, then he began to blend in Chardonnay from other parcels to complete the cuvée. But Sylvain wasn't content with mixing this unique grape variety with traditional Chardonnay. He continued his research from there, finally using his vines from Les Blangeys to propagate the variety, planting at high density (20,000 vines per hectare) in 2009 and then in 2013 and 2014.
Once again the expressive nose is super-fresh and appealing with its overtly floral-suffused nose of red pinot fruit, wet stone and rose petal. The medium weight flavors aren't quite as concentrated, but they are notably finer on the youthfully austere finale that could use better depth.
- Burghound, 88-90
Firm reduction completely masks the underlying fruit. More interesting are the racy and beautifully detailed medium-bodied flavors that exude evident minerality on the moderately austere and decidedly firm finale that exhibits lovely balance. This is very good but firm enough to need at least some patience, indeed up to a decade's worth would not surprise me.
- Burghound, 90-93 Top Value!
Bright deep purple. A spectacular bouquet, too much fruit to be able to keep it all in one glass, yet beautifully harnessed. Magically intense with a wonderful interplay between the peppery energy of the stems and the magical intensity of the dark red berry fruit. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted: November 2023.
- Jasper Morris, 91-93 | 5 Stars
The 2022 Marsannay Les Longeroies offers open red cherry and raspberry coulis scents on the nose-one of the most generous at the moment amongst Pataille's 2022s. The pr bodied with fine, slightly flinty red fruit and fine delineation, finishing with impressive focus. Plenty of energy coiled up in this Marsannay. Excellent.
- Neal Martin, 91-93
Once again there is a highly attractive floral quality to the softly spicy if distinctly earthy nose that features mostly notes of dark currant and exotic tea. There is good underlying tension to the well-detailed medium weight flavors that are shaped by relatively fine-grained tannins on the chiseled and sneaky long finish that is akin to rolling tiny pebbles around in the mouth. This decidedly firm effort is an excellent example of the vineyard though one that will need all of a decade to arrive at its apogee.
- Burghound, 91-93 Top Value!
The 2022 Marsonnoy Clos du Roy has a very well-defined bouquet with block cherries and wild strawberries, hints of inkwell and brine joining the chorus line with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, fout and fresh, with a very elegant, poised finish. About as good a Marsannay as you will find in this vintage.
- Neal Martin, 92-94
