2022 New Arrivals from Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Late last year, I sampled a handful of wines at the cellars of Domiane Joseph Drouhin. And as the Burghound review suggests, they were absolutely stunning. I have been buying them at every opportunity for my own cellar and to offer them to you.
With an address sitting amongst some of the most compelling Burgundy wines made today, Drouhin is still largely overlooked by collectors who haven’t had the luxury of exploring the entire collection. Not every wine in their lineup falls into the exceptional category, so many collectors are thrown off the scent. To my nose, this smells of opportunity!
As someone who knows the entire lineup, in fact, I can assure you, there are a handful of wines not to be missed; top of list is the 2022 Beaune Clos des Mouches. At 25 hectares, Clos des Mouches is one of a few vineyards in Burgundy planted to both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The name is said to originate from the bees (mouches a miel) that were once prevalent in the area. In the 1920’s, Maurice Drouhin began purchasing small parcels, little by little, until he amassed 14 of the 25 hectares.
Most people I chat with believe they prefer the blanc over the rouge and in the past, I would have agreed. However with the warmer climate it has allowed the Pinot Noir to reach a more consistent maturity which better balances the streak of minerality that is the backbone of this wine’s DNA.
Present day, certainly with the 2022 vintage, I don’t believe either color has an edge over the other.
The other wine to highlight is the Chassagne Montrachet 1er Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche. The Laguiche family owned a significant portion of Le Montracet before the French Revolution, until the marquis was guillotined. His tattered family emerged still owning 2 hectares of Montrachet, as well as significant holdings in the Chassagne 1er crus Morgeot and Chenevottes. The relationship between the Laguiche family and Joseph Drouhin dates back to the mid 20th century when the family entrusted Drouhin to manage and produce their wines. The wines of Marquis de Laguiche are arguably some of the finest the Domaine produces. The 2022 Morgeot is not to be missed!
A slightly earthier nose reflects ripe and beautifully layered aromas of black cherry, cassis and a plethora of floral nuances, especially violet. The round, delicious and almost tender medium-bodied flavors possess a highly seductive texture before culminating in a youthfully austere, beautifully balanced and hugely long finale. This too could use better depth, but the aging track record of this wine is so good that more will almost certainly develop.
- Burghound, 91-94 Sweet Spot Outstanding
The 2022 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches (Domaine) is shaping up beautifully, revealing aromas of sweet cherries, cassis, licorice and spices deftly framed by toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with a fleshy core of fruit, succulent acids and powdery tannins, the Drouhin's own fully 14 hectares of this prime premier cru, which is divided equally between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
- William Kelley, 92-94
A deft application of wood frames the more elegant nose of white-fleshed fruit, citrus, acacia and crushed anise hints. The rich, generous and vibrant middleweight flavors are supported by bright citrus-tinged acidity on the sneaky long, dry and balanced finale. This is also lovely and a wine that could be enjoyed young or aged successfully for up to a decade.
- Burghound, 92 Outstanding!
A deft application of wood frames the overtly floral-suffused nose of petrol, white peach, lemon zest and subtle spice wisps. The medium-bodied flavors are also rich to the point of opulence, yet the firm acid spine saves the balance on the saliva-inducing, long and powerful finish. This fine effort is very Morgeot in character and worth a look.
- Burghound 91-93 Outstanding!
Aromas of honeyed orchard fruits, buttery pastry, peaches, toasted nuts and spices introduce the 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche, a medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny wine that's rich, glossy and unctuous, with all the fat and texture typical of this bottling.
- William Kelley, 92-94
VinsRare Note : typically made from 6 or 7 different 1ers depending on whether the fruit from the parcel of Les Baudes is included; in 2022 it is composed of Les Sentiers, Les Borniques, Haut Doix, Feusselottes, Groseilles, Les Plantes and Les Combottes
An airy, ripe and perfumed nose speaks of mostly various red berries and a hint of cinnamon tea. In keeping with the elegance of the nose the mouthfeel of the middleweight flavors is super-sleek thanks to the very fine-grained tannins shaping the youthfully austere, balanced and lingering finish. This could use more depth but that should progressively develop if given a chance.
- Burghound, 91-93 Outstanding!
