2022 Lafon Volnay Santenots
On offer today is the highest scoring red wine in the Cote De Beaune for 2022, from none other than Domaine Comtes Lafon. Dominique Lafon has guided this estate since 1985, ushering in farming practices (biodynamics) and a winemaking philosophy that was well ahead of its time. With an enviable set of vineyards he has elevated the estate to be among the best in all of Burgundy. He has recently passed the reins to daughter Lea and nephew Pierre, who look to build upon the lofty expectations he has set. It does not appear that they have missed a beat with the 2022 vintage.
Santenots du Milieu is a vineyard that lies within the boundaries of Meursault, but for historical, geological and regulatory reasons, the red wines are more closely associated with the red wines of Volnay located just to the north and thus are labeled as such.
This is a wine of which I own many vintages in my personal cellar. It's a powerful wine that offers large scaled flavors, clearly built for aging but at the same time there is a floral character often marked by violets that makes the nose so intriguing. It’s one of those wines I simply buy every year, but with 2022, I’m stashing a few extra bottles.
I think Burghound is spot on with this one…
Slightly riper and markedly spicier aromas of poached plum, dark currant and a suggestion of earth enjoy a variety of floral influences and in particular violet. There is excellent volume and better mid-palate density to the focused and powerful larger-bodied flavors that conclude in a compact, serious and bult-to-age finale. This is impressive and wine that should age gracefully over the next 20 years. Strongly worth considering.
- Burghound, 92-95 Sweet Spot Outstanding!
For the first time, the Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu contains 50% whole clusters, which they believe adds more freshress to the wine. I think it gives another layer of complexity: black plum, violet, briar and just a touch of graphite. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins and gentle grip, gaining body and depth towards a harmonious and minerally finish. Excellent. NB In 2023, they de-stemmed 100%, so the whole bunches are subject to the growing season
- Vinous Media/Neal Martin, 94-96
Revisited in bottle, the 2022 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu opens in the glass with aromas of plums, sweet wild berries and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and charming palate that's suave and integrated out of the gates.
- William Kelley, 93
