2022 BITOUZET PRIEUR
I couldn’t be more pleased to offer the 2022 vintage of Bitouzet Prier , which has just arrived in our warehouse! It’s another resounding success for Francois Bitouzet. The wines combine the richness you would expect from a sunny vintage like 2022, but at the same time, offer precision, freshness and minerality. It’s the stuff that has the world going cra-cra for Burgundy - still the most interesting wines on the planet. I sometimes wonder if mankind will spend the rest of its existence trying to replicate what happened in Burgundy (is still happening?). Another conversation, another time. Anyway…
The entire lineup comes very highly recommended.
It's been fun watching the next generation in Burgundy take over for their parents, standing on their shoulders, building on their knowledge. In the case of Bitouzet, it’s gone from a very good domaine… to a great one. Francois Bitouzet took control from his parents Vincent Bitouzet (Volnay) and Ann Prieur (Meursault) around 2010. His parent’s marriage had combined two important families into one formidable domaine, with 12 hectares of vines in some of Volnay and Meursaults most important 1er crus. Historically, they always made nice wines but rarely, if ever, did they produce anything truly compelling.
THAT has all changed!
One of the first changes Francois implemented was in the vineyards with the conversion to organic farming in 2013, although with no certification. His biggest undertaking is no doubt the incredible winery; a facility he created in the industrial portion of Meursault. Imagine having a blank check and creating your absolute dream winery, equipped with every imaginable piece of winemaking equipment, offices, reception areas etc...
The WOW factor is truly amazing!
The wines first caught my attention with the 2017 vintage. At that point, Francois had been farming organically for 5 years. With winemaking, obviously, it's not like you flip the switch on a new assembly line and the next vintage is incredible, even if you own all the best vineyards. It's a process. It's a small change here and a tweak there and then you look up 5 years later and viola, the fruits of your labor begin to show (pun intended).
About the time I started sitting up and paying attention, Francois broke ground on the new wine-making facility. If my memory serves, 2019 was the first vintage that he was able to vinify in the new facility. This is where the wines really took another giant leap forward. He was now able to vinify in a way that he was now able to control the temperatures, vinify separately, move the wines when they were ready and not because he needed the space for something else. It's this precision that has really defined what is happening today.
Fuller lemon yellow in colour, with a bouquet that shows riper fruit than the Corbins, more expressive. Starts with a certain generosity of fruit then clamps down in a much more austere, limestone finish. A little more persistent. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted: November 2023.
- Jasper Morris, 89-92
The 2022 Meursault Les Charmes ler Cru has a very attractive nose with yellow fruit, peach skin, touches of beeswax and crushed stone. The oak is very nicely integrated. The palate is well-balanced, the 20% new oak well-judged, and the crisp acidity imparts freshness and tension. It delivers the concentration you expect from a Charmes, with the orange peel and tangerine finish lingering nicely in the mouth.
- Neal Martin, 91-93
From vines planted in 1983 in the central core of Perrières. There is quite powerful fruit, with the full imprint of Perrières, ripe pears with the apples, a significantly greater depth of fruit than the Charmes, well tied in to the acidity, and with fine length. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted: November 2023.
- Jasper Morris, 92-95
The 2022 Volnay Clos des Chênes ler Cru is very expressive on the nose. Redcurrant, wild strawberry and light rose petal scents unfold in the glass, less immediate than the Caillerets but ultimately offering more complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. This is harmonious, taut, fresh, and well-defined, with a composed but persistent finish. Excellent.
- Neil Martin, 92-94
