Article: Philippe Bouzereau
Philippe Bouzereau
Every year I go to France, somewhere between the planned appointments and the familiar faces, there is a moment I can't quite plan for, a domaine I knew nothing about that stops me in my tracks. I hear time and time again that all the great estates have already been discovered. Sometimes it's precisely the ones nobody is talking about that turn up the best values in all of Burgundy. I'd like to introduce you to Domaine Philippe Bouzereau.
Much like the name Morey is woven into the fabric of Chassagne-Montrachet, Bouzereau runs deep through Meursault, attached to no fewer than seven different domaines, all related, some,holding parcels in the village's finest vineyards — Perrières, Charmes, and Genevrières.
Philippe Bouzereau represents the ninth generation of vine growers in Meursault. He and his brother Charles took control of the estate in 2006, managing 18 hectares stretching from Aloxe-Corton in the north to Chassagne-Montrachet in the south. The domaine is tucked within the grounds of the historic Château de Cîteaux, right in the heart of Meursault, and includes a 1.7-hectare monopole vineyard planted by Philippe's father — a quiet point of pride that tells you everything about how seriously this family takes their land. It took a few phone calls to track the place down, but the moment I arrived I knew it was worth the effort.
What makes a visit like this so exciting is what's waiting in the cellar. Philippe holds parcels in all three of Meursault's most celebrated premiers crus, and tasting through them side by side is a master class in terroir. Perrières is the most mineral and precise, with a steely, almost Chablis-like tension and extraordinary aging potential. Charmes is the most immediately seductive, richer and rounder, the easiest to love young while still rewarding patience. Genevrières sits somewhere between the two, offering Perrières' structure alongside a floral, honeyed generosity that makes it perhaps the most complete of the trio.
With white Burgundy prices climbing soaring year after year, stumbling upon a quality estate producing first-rate Meursault, feels like finding something the market hasn't caught up to yet. These wines are in stock now and available in limited quantity, I’d encourage you to move quickly. This is exactly the kind of discovery I travel to France to find, and I’m thrilled to be able to share them with you.
This is my favorite wine in the lineup, maybe not as serious and the perrieres as far as depth and concentration but balances beautifully the richness Meursault is known for with that persistence that all great wines display. Worth a look!
This is the most generous and forward of the Meursault offerings. It has that mouth coating Meursault richness that makes it enjoyable now but delivers enough punchy acidity lurking underneath that keeps it in perfect balance.
This is my favorite wine in the lineup, maybe not as serious and the perrieres as far as depth and concentration but balances beautifully the richness Meursault is known for with that persistence that all great wines display. Worth a look!
Hard not to gravitate toward this one - the great terroirs are the great terroirs for a reason. I feel this has more in common with Puligny as the minerality is so front and center. Bit more reserved than the other 1er cru but with a little air I get some of that buttered popcorn on the nose - palate is still quite dense and tightly coiled. This most likely ends up being the best of the bunch, its just going to take a couple of years in the cellar for it to round into top form.
