Maratray-Dubreuil

For years, Ladoix has quietly lived in the shadow of its famous neighbors. Most people drive right past. I know I did for years. The appellation rarely gets a whole lot of attention, mostly because there are no famous names making wine there.

When we were presented with a range of wines from a new producer Maratray-Dubreuil, the importer had my full attention as soon as he poured the 2023 Ladoix “La Blancharde.”

The first thing that came to mind was "Corton-Charlemagne."

The nose offered that petrol quality you get from Corton-Charlemagne, the fruit is dense, and as you roll the wine around in your mouth it coats and envelops the entire palate. It's generous without being heavy, and then as you swallow, the back end absolutely explodes with waves of mineral-infused deliciousness.

To say I was impressed was an understatement! I had to take a second look at the label and said, "Wait… this is a Ladoix lieu-dit?" This isn’t even a 1er Cru!

If you've been reading my emails, you probably remember me talking about Ladoix when we offered some red wines from another producer we absolutely have fallen in love with, Domaine Ravaut. I mentioned that climate change has helped to more easily ripen the fruit, and that warmer vintages have transformed the appellation, allowing growers to produce wines with a level of ripeness and polish that simply wasn't common twenty or thirty years ago. It also helps now that the wines sell for a few more euros, which allows the vignerons to hire additional staff, and the vines are being looked after with the care of some of the more famous vineyards. Remember all great wine starts in the vineyard.

Maratray-Dubreuil has a history in Ladoix that goes back several generations. You'll notice that the family name is derived from two very well-known families. I don't know the entire backstory yet, but this is going to be on my short list of visits on my next trip to France!

With the way Burgundy prices have gone, I am always looking for that new discovery, and I have to say this is a gem. I love finding wines that nobody else is selling because they have no reviews. I know what great wine is supposed to taste like, and when I find it, I try to buy everything available. I sheepishly told the importer trying to sound too excited - why don’t you send me 20cs. He laughed and said he wished he had 20 but I was welcome to the 8cs he was allocated. I said send it! This wine is going to surprise a lot of you, especially those of you that are used to the $100+ Chassagne and Puligny Montrachet. I’d say taste it blind against some of the more famous names - this is going to make people think differently about Ladoix!