Article: Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin
Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin
Bonjour from Chablis!
I have spent the last three days in Chablis tasting more than 60 wines from the 2024 vintage, and I could not be more excited to share some of my thoughts and impressions from this tremendous year.
I’ve written several times about the 2024 vintage. The growing season was one of the most difficult anyone had ever seen. Everything that could go wrong did: frost, hail, rain, poor flowering, mildew, more rain. It was a nightmare. Talking with several producers, some described the grapes on the vines as almost black. In some parcels there was so little fruit there was nothing to harvest, while other vignerons reported somewhat normal yields from different sites.
I would say most estates produced about one-third of a normal crop. I expected that to be the dominant theme of every conversation, and while it certainly came up, what surprised me most was how upbeat everyone was. The reason is simple: the wines they produced are some of the most compelling we have seen since 2014, which, if you are new to Chablis, is considered one of the finest vintages the region has ever seen.
The wines are, in a word, classic. By that I mean focused and transparent, citrus-leaning with hints of white flowers, sea breeze, and iodine. They finish balanced and powerful, energetic and vibrant, mineral-driven with lip-smacking acidity. Just thinking back on the wines makes my mouth water.
Having tasted the 2014s at a similar stage, I would say the acidity in 2024 does not feel quite as sharp because there is a bit more fruit present, which creates a sense of balance. In short, these wines are truly compelling, and as a Chablis lover I could not be more excited.
Reading the early reports from both Burghound and Jasper Morris, there were already signs that this might be a strong vintage. That said, I do think their scores reflect a somewhat conservative assessment, as they tasted the wines about six months ago. Anyone who follows Chablis knows how these wines evolve during élevage, and it can be difficult to judge them when they are not even halfway through that process. Keep that in mind when reading the reviews, as I don’t believe they fully capture just how good these wines truly are.
I did taste with Benoît Droin, which I try to do on every visit to Chablis. With 26 hectares of vines spread across all the major vineyards, tasting with him gives you a real sense of the region as a whole. He was brimming with excitement as he poured one wine after another. From the Chablis to Les Clos, the wines are absolutely stunning. My notes read: fresh, energetic, with great length and depth. These are everything you want in classic Chablis. I cannot recommend them highly enough.
He has already bottled the wines. In fact, I am sipping on a bottle of Vaillons as I write this email.
When I asked him which vintage he compares 2024 to, he didn’t hesitate: 2014. He then disappeared into the cellar and returned with a bottle of 2014 Mont de Milieu. It was absolutely brilliant. Still incredibly fresh, just beginning to show a little additional complexity on the nose, while the palate remained mineral-driven and vibrant, with easily another ten years of life ahead of it. Although he bottles on the earlier side to capture the freshness these wines really do age.
I feel Benoît Droin’s wines are still somewhat slept on by many people. This is a top estate, that in my opinion still flies a bit under the radar, and hence prices ae a bit below some of the other more well know names.
The biggest differences between 2014 and 2024 is quantity. In 2014, the harvest was good size, once people realized how good the wines were and really started chasing after them, we were able to go back and buy more wine. In fact we made several offers over the course of the campaign. That will not be the case with 2024. I feel lucky to have snagged this nice parcel I offer below, but by the time people fully realize how great this vintage is, most of the wines will already be gone.
I cannot stress this enough: if classically styled Chablis is something you love (and who doesn’t?), I would secure these early because there is simply so little wine. My allocation of the Grand Crus below is counted in bottles, not cases.
Buy these wines - You can thank me later.
A slightly riper nose includes notes of pear, apple, citrus and an equally broad range of classic Chablis elements. There is more volume and a more refined texture to the medium weight flavors that also exude a subtle minerality to the clean, dry and refreshing finish where a hint of youthful austere slowly emerges.
- Burghound, 88-91
Moderate wood serves as the backdrop for the more floral-suffused aromas of sea breeze, white orchard fruit and a touch of citrus confit. The caressing but punchy middle weight flavors possess a succulent mid-palate texture before concluding in a youthfully austere and attractively dry finale. This could use better depth so a few years of keeping are recommended.
- Burghound, 89-91
30% oak in the blend. A little more yellow in the colour, and a softer more opulent yellow fruit on the nose. Power up front, lighter behind, with lemon notes to finish. Drink from 2027-2030.
- Jasper Morris, 89-91
There is a whisper of the exotic lurking in the background of the aromas of white peach, quinine, acacia blossom and a hint of shellfish. The bigger and richer if not quite as vibrant larger-scaled flavors that evidence good power on the clean, dry and solidly persistent finish that is just a bit firmer. Good potential here
- Burghound, 89-92
25% oak. A fullish pale lemon yellow. The south facing slope offers a generosity of fruit on the nose. A well-balanced ripeness and nicely structured with greater persistence. Ripe apples along with some stone fruit. Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted Jun 2025.
- Jasper Morris, 90-92
Prominent petrol nuances are present on the ripe and smoky mix of mineral reduction, acacia blossom, lemon-lime and ocean breeze are trimmed in subtle but not invisible wood. There is both better volume and a bit more punch as well to the utterly delicious flavors that deliver fine length on the balanced, dry and sleek finale. While this could use better depth, it's very stylish, indeed the word classy comes to mind.
- Burghound, 90-93
30% oak component. A lively fresh lemon. Immediate personality without the super-succulence of the hotter years. A little smoky reduction. White orchard fruit with good energy behind, attractive kimmeridgian texture behind. Fine persistence. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Jun 2025.
- Jasper Morris, 90-93
As is often the case with the Droin Valmur, the nose instantly makes clear that this could be from nowhere else but Chablis. On the palate there is more volume, power and weight, if not nearly the same refinement, to the rich and caressing bigger-bodied flavors, all wrapped in an impressively persistent and balanced finale. Like several wines in the range, this too would benefit from having more depth so I would advise allowing it at least mid-term cellaring.
- Burghound, 91-94
Here too the wood treatment is reasonably subtle though hardly invisible on the vaguely exotic nose of spicy white and yellow peach, quinine and cool shellfish nuances. The super-sleek and highly refined middle weight flavors are borderline delicate before terminating in a linger, compact and dry-in-the-best sense finish. While this should be capable of rewarding up to a decade of keeping, it's not so backward that it couldn't be approached after only 5 or so.
- Burghound, 91-93
35% oak in the blend. Pale in colour and restrained in bouquet. Fresh melons maybe. Good tension on the palate, limestone energy, and fair persistence. An attractive wine though a little less dense than its fellow grands crus. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Jun 2025.
- Jasper Morris, 91-93
A citrus and mineral reduction-tinged nose is comprised mostly of green fruit, iodine and oyster shell nuances. The palate impression is much like that of the Valmur as the big-bodied flavors are dense and muscular while exhibiting excellent power on the borderline aggressively stony, sappy, very dry and youthfully austere finale. As is virtually always the case, this is very much built-to-age and a wine that is going to need at least some bottle aging.
- Burghound, 92-94
Note: from a 1.4 ha holding in Les Clos
40% oak for Les Clos, which retains its Hommage à Louis soubriquet. A bright pale colour. Subtly perfumed on the nose, white flowers in full summer, excellent marine freshness at the finish, understated but fine and persistent. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Jun 2025.
- Jasper Morris, 92-94
